Tuesday 27 August




From Nome to Tuk we had experienced positive north and then east running currents. In fact in the Bering Strait these had been at times in excess of 1 Kt.. Now we are experiencing the slights effects of tidal movement. Little more than 0.5 Kt., either helping us along or opposing us; depending on the tides state. During the early morning we navigated around various islands, sprinkled out across the sea. We passed between Douglas Island to the west and Lady Franklin Point to the east. Here a traffic separation lane exists as the channels narrow in place and clearly a tug, towing barges in a line that could be 500 metres or more in length as we have seen will need their space and have limited manoeuvrability. As we turned more easterly into Coronation Gulf we had c. 190nm to run to Cambridge Bay.




With so much solitude despite sharing the 33' of space with four others its amazing where the mind wanders. I ended up writing a list of things I need to do (believe me there is always more to do than you would think on a boat). High on the list, and the benefit of bringing my lap top with me is to get my curriculum vitae up to date as this adventure will come to an end - sooner or later depending on the ice situation east of Cambridge and I will need a job! Likewise, I have not heard any news, national or international for four weeks - for all I know the economy is sorted, Prince Harry is engaged to a quiet, dull character and the Spice Girls are No. 1 in the charts… then again most times I go away the economy takes a nose dive and the FTSE crashes. I digress….




At lunchtime we closed into the shore off Victoria Island north of the Duke of York archipelago of islands to test the underwater filming equipment. The weather had become positively summery at 13 degrees Celsius. Dinner that evening was Bob's standard fare… a tin of spam, a tin of sweet corn, a tin of mushrooms and a jar of sweet and sour sauce, ladled elegantly over boiled rice. It actually is quite nice. By rationing Bob's time at the galley means that there is no obvious notice of repetition. Though Karen and Steph's faces are a picture if they are washing up as there is always a fair amount of residue of the fine dish around the galley, behind the cooker and on the cabin sole (floor).




The last leg has been somewhat devoid of wildlife. We see the odd seal, the odd bird but little else. Slightly disappointing, though if you were a twitcher (I am definitely not) I am sure you could tell the species part, to the uneducated Richard there are seagulls, black birds and things in-between. What is awe-inspiring is the fact that much of the water we have crossed is solid ice during the winter.




Wednesday 28 August




Another day, another low un-photogenic island to pass. The day started damp, with light drizzle. I really am looking forward to a change of scenery. I never imagined that the entire trip to date would have such boring vistas… i'm sorry but there really isn't another word for it. I'm not complaining about the adventure, but for some reason my preconceived idea was more Greenland / Scotland / New Zealand and less…. well less moon like.




What is fascinating however is the place names. Whether inlet, island,river or headland the names always have a significant historical link and associated story. However the more mundane parts are in the main unnamed. This has led me to the decision that I am going to name some of the places we have been to which are at present "unnamed".




We stopped mid morning to do a further seabed filming session having last night confirmed after a lengthy data download that the video was a success. Like the landscape, the seabed has limited visual appeal with few plant growth, only a few sea urchins and star fish. Nothing so far thats going to get me an Oscar under the real life documentary category. Having said that, the crew huddle round the real time video monitor when I'm trawling the camera as it is quite addictive.




The ice situation has worsened over the past 24-48 hours. However, up here the situation changes very quickly. There are now 5/10th's ice where we encountered 2/10th's back at Cape Bathurst. More concerning, bearing in mind our easterly objectives is that whilst Bellot Strait is currently open, there is also 5/10th's ice in Prince Regent Inlet. If we were to go for it, the danger is once through the Bellot Strait the ice may close up thereby cutting our escape route back. If Prince Regent is open enough to enable us to get to Fort Ross on Somerset Island that is beneficial, but if we are then stuck as autumn closes in there is no where to lift the boat out.




As we approached Cambridge Bay a yacht motor sailed towards us. On calling them up on the VHF they had been one of the western bound crowd this year (c.5-6 boats) and the first to leave Cambridge Bay after a short 36 hr stopover. The weather by mid afternoon was glorious. The sun shone, blue sky and a light breeze from the south. Just outside the harbour a small dingy was being sailed, with tan sails and a small gaff. Slight;y incongruous to the surroundings but we thought, good on the locals to enjoy their harbour sailing… oh how wrong we were!




The entrance to Cambridge Bay consists of three sets of leading marks. Each set leading you anti-clockwise into the harbour itself. We arrived about 1500 hrs local to the most odd sight: a cruise liner anchored in the bay! In fact, this is a fairly common experience now as one or two companies run either through the NW passage if clear, or in or out of both the east and western approaches. This year their ability to make the passage has been thwarted but they now are heading to Nome. It slightly spoils our Corinthian spirit but thats the world.




We were however expecting the west bound yachts that we found tied up at the pier in Cambridge Bay. These five boats had concertinaed together due to the ice to the East. Some are planning to venture further West, a few are planning to winter here in Cambridge Bay.




The big surprise of the afternoon was the arrival, just after us of the small sailing dingy we had seen on our approach and overtaken. On closer inspection she was about 18' long, and quite high tech despite her tanned sails and gaff rig. She sported a carbon fibre mast, sets of carbon sculling oars and the odd Go Pro camera mounted to the stern and the mast head. Crewed by two Australians, in dry suits they had sailed from Inuvik on the Mackenzie River. Camping ashore at night, rowing when there was no wind. Mad… definitely.  




They moored alongside an equally mad bunch of adventurers. A rowing boat (of the type used in trans-Atlantic rowing races) with four Irishmen. These guys were rowing the same route as the Australians, and like them had called it a day at Cambridge Bay. By coincidence I had heard of their trip before departing the UK from the Marketing Director of Dubarry, the Irish company who had provided my sea boots. These guys were typically full of craic. They mused about having a day of rowing (8 hours) where they only made 950m of progress!). Their hands were battered and they readily admitted that they were glad it was over.




With all these boats congregating together it has been an experience of a sudden cultural change… one minute only ourselves to talk to and the next a group of multinational adventurers each with their own experiences. It looks like therefore that there will be a nine boats either completing or part completing the passage this year - and with the exception of the elusive Polar Bound we have met them all now.




Following mooring up alongside an aluminium 45' Canadian yacht we got straight onto sourcing gas (we got two cylinders and the regulators fit!) and fuel bunkered (c.350 litres). We intend only to hang around for a day or so being ready to make the rush through Prince Regent Sound. We have completed approximately 1950 miles with a further 1600 to go to Greenland… ice depending.




Tomorrow is run ashore day! Oh the delights of Cambridge Bay awaits.




Richard

Tuesday 27 August

From Nome to Tuk we had experienced positive north and then east running currents. In fact in the Bering Strait these had been at times in excess of 1 Kt.. Now we are experiencing the slights effects of tidal movement. Little more than 0.5 Kt., either helping us along or opposing us; depending on the tides state. During the early morning we navigated around various islands, sprinkled out across the sea. We passed between Douglas Island to the west and Lady Franklin Point to the east. Here a traffic separation lane exists as the channels narrow in place and clearly a tug, towing barges in a line that could be 500 metres or more in length as we have seen will need their space and have limited manoeuvrability. As we turned more easterly into Coronation Gulf we had c. 190nm to run to Cambridge Bay.




With so much solitude despite sharing the 33' of space with four others its amazing where the mind wanders. I ended up writing a list of things I need to do (believe me there is always more to do than you would think on a boat). High on the list, and the benefit of bringing my lap top with me is to get my curriculum vitae up to date as this adventure will come to an end - sooner or later depending on the ice situation east of Cambridge and I will need a job! Likewise, I have not heard any news, national or international for four weeks - for all I know the economy is sorted, Prince Harry is engaged to a quiet, dull character and the Spice Girls are No. 1 in the charts… then again most times I go away the economy takes a nose dive and the FTSE crashes. I digress….




At lunchtime we closed into the shore off Victoria Island north of the Duke of York archipelago of islands to test the underwater filming equipment. The weather had become positively summery at 13 degrees Celsius. Dinner that evening was Bob's standard fare… a tin of spam, a tin of sweet corn, a tin of mushrooms and a jar of sweet and sour sauce, ladled elegantly over boiled rice. It actually is quite nice. By rationing Bob's time at the galley means that there is no obvious notice of repetition. Though Karen and Steph's faces are a picture if they are washing up as there is always a fair amount of residue of the fine dish around the galley, behind the cooker and on the cabin sole (floor).




The last leg has been somewhat devoid of wildlife. We see the odd seal, the odd bird but little else. Slightly disappointing, though if you were a twitcher (I am definitely not) I am sure you could tell the species part, to the uneducated Richard there are seagulls, black birds and things in-between. What is awe-inspiring is the fact that much of the water we have crossed is solid ice during the winter.




Wednesday 28 August




Another day, another low un-photogenic island to pass. The day started damp, with light drizzle. I really am looking forward to a change of scenery. I never imagined that the entire trip to date would have such boring vistas… i'm sorry but there really isn't another word for it. I'm not complaining about the adventure, but for some reason my preconceived idea was more Greenland / Scotland / New Zealand and less…. well less moon like.




What is fascinating however is the place names. Whether inlet, island,river or headland the names always have a significant historical link and associated story. However the more mundane parts are in the main unnamed. This has led me to the decision that I am going to name some of the places we have been to which are at present "unnamed".




We stopped mid morning to do a further seabed filming session having last night confirmed after a lengthy data download that the video was a success. Like the landscape, the seabed has limited visual appeal with few plant growth, only a few sea urchins and star fish. Nothing so far thats going to get me an Oscar under the real life documentary category. Having said that, the crew huddle round the real time video monitor when I'm trawling the camera as it is quite addictive.




The ice situation has worsened over the past 24-48 hours. However, up here the situation changes very quickly. There are now 5/10th's ice where we encountered 2/10th's back at Cape Bathurst. More concerning, bearing in mind our easterly objectives is that whilst Bellot Strait is currently open, there is also 5/10th's ice in Prince Regent Inlet. If we were to go for it, the danger is once through the Bellot Strait the ice may close up thereby cutting our escape route back. If Prince Regent is open enough to enable us to get to Fort Ross on Somerset Island that is beneficial, but if we are then stuck as autumn closes in there is no where to lift the boat out.




As we approached Cambridge Bay a yacht motor sailed towards us. On calling them up on the VHF they had been one of the western bound crowd this year (c.5-6 boats) and the first to leave Cambridge Bay after a short 36 hr stopover. The weather by mid afternoon was glorious. The sun shone, blue sky and a light breeze from the south. Just outside the harbour a small dingy was being sailed, with tan sails and a small gaff. Slight;y incongruous to the surroundings but we thought, good on the locals to enjoy their harbour sailing… oh how wrong we were!




The entrance to Cambridge Bay consists of three sets of leading marks. Each set leading you anti-clockwise into the harbour itself. We arrived about 1500 hrs local to the most odd sight: a cruise liner anchored in the bay! In fact, this is a fairly common experience now as one or two companies run either through the NW passage if clear, or in or out of both the east and western approaches. This year their ability to make the passage has been thwarted but they now are heading to Nome. It slightly spoils our Corinthian spirit but thats the world.




We were however expecting the west bound yachts that we found tied up at the pier in Cambridge Bay. These five boats had concertinaed together due to the ice to the East. Some are planning to venture further West, a few are planning to winter here in Cambridge Bay.




The big surprise of the afternoon was the arrival, just after us of the small sailing dingy we had seen on our approach and overtaken. On closer inspection she was about 18' long, and quite high tech despite her tanned sails and gaff rig. She sported a carbon fibre mast, sets of carbon sculling oars and the odd Go Pro camera mounted to the stern and the mast head. Crewed by two Australians, in dry suits they had sailed from Inuvik on the Mackenzie River. Camping ashore at night, rowing when there was no wind. Mad… definitely.  




They moored alongside an equally mad bunch of adventurers. A rowing boat (of the type used in trans-Atlantic rowing races) with four Irishmen. These guys were rowing the same route as the Australians, and like them had called it a day at Cambridge Bay. By coincidence I had heard of their trip before departing the UK from the Marketing Director of Dubarry, the Irish company who had provided my sea boots. These guys were typically full of craic. They mused about having a day of rowing (8 hours) where they only made 950m of progress!). Their hands were battered and they readily admitted that they were glad it was over.




With all these boats congregating together it has been an experience of a sudden cultural change… one minute only ourselves to talk to and the next a group of multinational adventurers each with their own experiences. It looks like therefore that there will be a nine boats either completing or part completing the passage this year - and with the exception of the elusive Polar Bound we have met them all now.




Following mooring up alongside an aluminium 45' Canadian yacht we got straight onto sourcing gas (we got two cylinders and the regulators fit!) and fuel bunkered (c.350 litres). We intend only to hang around for a day or so being ready to make the rush through Prince Regent Sound. We have completed approximately 1950 miles with a further 1600 to go to Greenland… ice depending.




Tomorrow is run ashore day! Oh the delights of Cambridge Bay awaits.




Richard

Friday 23 August




We woke to the greeting of light snow on deck. The residents of Tuk fast asleep at this early hour. Indeed many sleep until well after midday and stay up well into the early hours. The first problem of the day arose as we tried to connect the newly acquired propane cylinder. Despite having Canadian, British and Danish (Greenland) regulators none would fit. The Canadian one being the right thread diameter but the wrong thread size. So straight onto gas rationing before the first cup of tea of the day. We swiftly left the pier, our home from the past few days and calibrated, this time successfully the Auto-helm computer. Motoring out of the natural harbour the winds were light. Once again we swiftly got into our watch routine. Bob concocted dinner; his usual which consists of spam, tinned sweet corn, tinned mushrooms and rice. Much of this is left on the work surface and behind the cooker much to the frustration of Karen and Steph.




Friday can best be described as nondescript. Temperatures were falling, so it was time for a new layer of clothing; the excellent Slam Blow jacket, which whilst light and thin is very warm. This addition taking the total on my top half to six (all fairly thin layers). Likewise the Dubarry boots that I have worn solely since departing Nome were replaced with sheepskin lined boots Sophie had bought me. Not very sailing like, but whilst the conditions were smooth these more than amply dealt with the temperature drop. 




Saturday 24 August




Awaking before dawn, to a change in engine noise as the boat slowed I dressed for my 0300-0500 hrs watch. My head, when in my bunk, is only about 3' from the engine so I notice the slightest alteration in throttle. On going on deck Bob and David were peering towards a long, low horizon made up of ice. The ice chart from the previous evening had shown a significant pack running NW to SE. As I took over watch we agreed to retrace our track to a safe distance and lie a hull, whilst waiting for daylight. Once in clear water I drifted for an hour in fairly calm conditions. As dawn came it appeared to me that we could arc around the ice inshore, heading slowly south, then south east and then easy and north east. This appeared to be a shorter route than heading off shore. Leaving Steph on watch she started this procedure until such a time that the ice pack was found to be broken and we could wiggle our way between the small bergs and low lying growlers. As a result of this "shove" to the East we were to pass through Snowgoose Pass, a channel between Cape Bathurst and the Baillie Islands.




During the morning I climbed the mast to the spreaders to get some photos. The task significantly easier than I am used to being aided by mast steps fixed every 2' up the spar. On exiting Snowgoose we made tracks towards Booth Islands, 50 nm away to the East. It was here that we planned to RV with David Scott Cowper aboard Polar Bound (a purpose built high latitude motor boat) who was following us about a day's steaming astern. Booth Islands are made up of two islands, one north, one south. I was quietly hoping that we would steam straight past - the ice conditions to the East still hampering the few Westbound boats this season and I don't want to miss any opportunity to get through. 




I received a text (via the sat phone kindly provided by Datasharp IC) from Sophie giving me the great news that the fundraising for the Ellen Macarthur Cancer Trust has hit £2500 including gift aid - it would be great to hit £3k!




As Saturday progressed the ice thinned. Watches were enjoyable as the broken ice resemble a scattered, broken jigsaw and allows the helm to play dodges. Each piece of ice having it's own structure and shape, some smooth and sweeping, others jagged and sharp. They become almost magnetic to the helm as you inadvertently want to get closer to inspect them. The ice at this stage on the far horizon looked continuous, but as you approach natural, weaving passes allow you to slip through between the growlers.




By late Saturday night Steph, Karen and Bob anchored to the north end of Summer Harbour at Booth Island. This large, natural harbour is a wonderfully protected anchorage with a small entrance. Despite being bleak, uninhabited, and having little if any fauna the biggest surprise is the damn big mooring buoy in the middle of the bay! The pilotage book however reveals that as the water in the bay is deep, it is the best storm shelterage for commercial ships using the area so that may be the reason the buoy (and I presume a big anchor and chain attached to it) is there.




Sunday 25 August




I was up first and on deck watching the sun rise to the NE. As the others woke and there was no sign of Polar Bound we weighed anchor and headed out of the harbour. The winds were light southerly and we turned to Port past Police Point and Devon Point. Located at the former is another of the dubious looking manmade settlements we have already experienced throughout the northern coast of Canada and Alaska. Located at specifically determined places are military or government establishments. Usually built on high ground, with panoramic vistas across the sea these developments were mainly early warning stations built during the cold war. Known as DEW (Distance Early Warning) lines, their functions remain, in many cases supplemented as meteorological, radar, radio or listening establishments. They have an eerie feel about them. Rarely are people seen, they are formed of modern boxy, abrupt and angular buildings, with domes, dishes and golf ball like structures nearby. More often than not large tanks are located close to the shore, no doubt holding fuel and water brought in during the summer months by tug and barge. These places basically resemble the "baddies lair" from a James Bond film - you get the picture!




Later in the morning, Cowper emailed to say he was having the same issue with ice as we had at the Baillie Islands, but due to his approaching bearing he was heading round it to the NW, I imagine a significantly longer detour than our own.




With Cambridge Bay c. 400 nm away were were back into routine after our "night off" and passed Cape Lyon to starboard. The topography started to change. The land becoming higher, but remaining desolate, dull and colourless (unless you are fond of grey and beige). In fact, over the past few weeks I have become more longing for hills, mountains and greenery. In fact it is like sailing alongside Chesil beach, just this version of Chesil is literally hundreds of miles long. If NASA did fake the moon landing, I'm pretty sure they came here to film it. 




Monday 26 August




At 0300 hrs a large tug towing two huge barges in line passed to starboard. Steph called to me as I was still awake and as they clearly had tried to contact us on the VHF were now morse coding us using their search light. The size of which would light the average residential street in an average sized town. Now aside the one morse code that every school boy knows my knowledge has waned over the years and deciding that deciphering their message was going to take to long we flicked the VHF on and had a chat. They had been holed out near Cambridge Bay waiting for a storm to pass through and advised us that another tug was coming our way 24 hrs behind them. The skipper also concurred with our experience that the weather forecasts were not representing what we were finding in reality. Just before signing out the skipper mentioned he had spare propane… just has they were disappearing over the horizon, It was a kind gesture but we decided to plough on.




Midmorning news was that Cowper was making progress after also stopping in Summer Harbour and had suggested another RV location of Bernard Harbour. He has invited the Dodo'd Delight crew over for dinner.




Dodo's Delight, much to the crews delight, has a small diesel heater on board. After gentle persuasion by Karen the heater has become a regular highlight of the day. For me it is the opportunity to dry out my bunk. This is located directly against the fibreglass hull. With the cold sea lapping the hull condensation quickly forms. Despite the use if a foam bedding role to aid insulation a small lake builds up. The only glitch to the heater is that the aft cabin vent is located adjacent to David's side of the bunk. Now David likes to sleep… a lot. We have three, 2 hour watches per 24 hours and I am gradually educating the skipper that the only time I benefit is if David is on watch, otherwise the only outcome is David getting a toasted thigh.




By Monday evening we were closing in to Dolphin and Union Strait with Cape's Young, Hope and Bexley running along our starboard side. To Port was the Wollaston Peninsula of Victoria Island. The sea colour had become less grey, with everything from topaz blue (in the sun), dark emerald and royal blues. The wonderful thing about this region, despite concerns regarding global warming and oil and mineral exploration, is that the sea is clean. There is no man made waste floating by. In fact aside the odd piece of driftwood there is no pollution visible.




During my evening watch I assembled the underwater videoing framework and rigged up the cameras and light so that we can get on with the seabed recording (more in regards to this research at a later stage). This was time shared with the latest book I have on the go and having since finished it can't recommend it highly enough: Attention All Shipping by Charlie Connelly. Brilliantly written and highly entertaining. Just before I ended my late watch the most spectacular sunset was thrown across the expanse of sea trailing behind the boat. I was mesmerised for about 45 minutes watching the sun drop to the horizon and below. The colours of tango orange and canary yellows were absolutely indescribable.  Before silence and sleep (aside the lone watch keeper_ descended across the boat Bob made the decision not to stop at Bernard Harbour to which I gave (inside my head at least) a big Yeh!




Richard

Dodo's Delight stopped in the optimistically named Summer Harbour on Saturday night.  Cambridge Bay is 380 miles away with clear seas for now and that is their next point of call.

Slight culinary fiasco in that the gas which was picked up in Tuktoyaktuk is not working so they are rationing cooker use and cups of tea!

The ice conditions beyond Cambridge Bay are not looking promising.

Quick text update from Richard - West of Cape Bathurst - there is a long line of ice.  The radar is showing continuous ice as far as we have range running SE to NW.  We are hove to for 2 hours now in daylight seeking a gap!!

Tuesday 13th - Wednesday 14th August.

Weather has turned noticeably colder as we are now 71 degrees north. Cooking is on a throretical rotation - though of the five on board clearly three of us prefer to do the job to ensure the galley output is more imaginative than a mixed variety of cans being thrown in one pan. Likewise cleaning appears to be the forte of the same three people. Though I have learnt that the ships 'paprika' is of a very hot nature - and should be used sparingly. The skipper had to run cold water through his sausage casserole this evening. Ice throughout the day has been sighted. Though very light in density and coverage, the horizon appears at times to be entirely blocked by a long, low line of ice. As we approach, with improved focal depth wide paths between bergs can be found. In fact much of this is 'brash' ice - where everything from small bergs the size of a house, to slush which is all but dissipated into the sea exists together. These ice patches come in long ribbons, after which clear seas are experienced for many miles before another ice ribbon is found.

We are heading towards Barter Island as there is a forecast NE force 6-7 expected at the end of the week and the consensus is we will make little progress beating upwind into those conditions. Barter Island has limited anchoring possibilities and is shallow but is our best option. Also, depending on the conditions it may be a refuelling opportunity.

The onboard dynamics of the crew are unfolding. With such a small living space, and people who have been thrown together for only one reason - to complete the NW Passage adventure, the smallest thing can spark dissatisfaction. It was one of my interests in doing this trip to determine these traits. Unlike my previous offshore experiences, such as the round the world race, we have had no time to get to know one another. On the Whitbread (now Volvo Ocean Race) you work with one another for many months before the actual race and by the time you cross the start line the team is just that, and the job of the skipper has been to ensure a crew that works well together. On this adventure that has never been done.

We have passed the Oilfields of Prudhoe Bay to the south, one large oil rig with attached accommodation platform rising out of the Arctic Ocean, lit up like a Christmas tree just a few miles off and a harsh place for the workers.

Thursday 15th - Friday 16th August

Wind and seas built steadily from the NE. Progress to the east being hampered and our bearing (direction) falling too far to the south bringing the dangers of shallow water and a lee shore. We are about 50 nm from Barter Island where we are to take what little shelter it offers. We spent the day motor sailing into the head seas, our speed often dropping to just 1 or 2 knots as we rose and crashed into short 3m seas. The result is water crashing over the decks and with all hatches closed the cabin isn't a great place to be resting. I am grateful for my diligence ensuring I brought the right clothing. Some of the crew are ill supplied, wearing gloves that are not waterproof, short sea boots not long, oilskins which are better designed for mountains than oceans and thermals which don't dry quickly. 

We arrived at Barter Island in Thursday evening. There were two barges and accompanying tugs here. Via VHF radio discussion and one investigative attempt we opted to anchor away from the settlement, by approx. 3 miles in an area of better shelter from the forecast Easterly winds. The water was shallow, so despite being half a mile off the beach, we anchored in 4 metres of depth. We ran 40m of chain (10:1 versus the cruising yachtsman's theory that only 3:1 is needed). This proved to be a wise choice over the coming 36 hours as the wind built and the swell increased.

Thursday was spent at anchor. Bread was made, the boat aired and the heater run for an hour. What little we can see of Barter Island indicates that there is plenty of investment here - modern warehouse units, radio masts, domes and antenna indicates that it has a military purpose. The forecast was looking good for a Sunday departure. 

Saturday 17th - Sunday 18th August

Early Saturday we received an updated weather forecast which indicated light NE or E winds to 10 knots. Whilst this would mean motoring in order to make progress, at least it was possible to make some further eastward progress. We left early with the opportunity to make for Demarcation Bay (located at the border of Alaska USA & Yukon Canada 150 miles east), or Herschel Island (200 miles) or if the forecast changed slightly we could get to the ideal place of Tuktoyaktuk ("Tuk"). Tuk is a fairly large settlement where we have always planned to have our main resupply (fuel, water & stores). It has a safe harbour where we can tie up alongside.

Fog continues to drift in and out of our lives, sometimes just for a few minutes, other times lasting for hours. On Saturday, whilst on deck I spotted an odd looking head pop out of the sea. At first glance I thought it to be an albino seal! On checking with the others we agreed it to be a small Beluga Whale, which are white in colour. Sunday morning the depth sounder played tricks on us. In the main, the western side of the Arctic ocean is very shallow. We are often well off shore in only 4 or 5 metres. However on Sunday clearly the echo sounder got a shock when we passed over a fault ledge and the depth plunges from 30m to 140m in a very short distance. From there on it decided to measure the depth randomly from less than a metre to more than a hundred. As shallow waters can be expected, but because the sea state had not altered significantly (shallow water often increases breaking seas) we carried on with a cautionary check the traditional way using a lead and line (or in our case a heavy shackle and line).

As we approached Tuktoyaktuk at 69 deg 27" N 132 deg 58" W the charts are littered with "Pingo's". These resemble - at least on a chart - the top of an underwater volcano or atoll. They are in fact ice -dome hills, found both at sea and on the adjacent land. They are formed by ground ice (i.e subterranean) which forms during the winter and pushes the surface up - whether above or below sea level. Up to 70m in height and 600m diameter they can be a sudden surprise if not carefully navigated around.

Monday 19th August

We arrived in Tuk in the early hours. Now 2 hours forward in time (BST now +7 hrs). The complex entrance to the natural harbour displayed the first navigation lights and bouys we have seen in 1300 nm. We anchored on the main bay in order to get some sleep before morning when we motored alongside the small concrete pier. Tuk is a small town, population less than 1000 but has a lovely feel, friendly people and whilst the landscape remains low, bleak and with little vegetation it resembles more of a Scandanavian feel than the places visited in North Alaska to date. Tuk has become known to many outsiders as one of the challenging destinations for the popular TV documentary drama "Ice Road Truckers". During the day we refuelled, fortunately the petrol station is located 100m from where the boat is moored. The locals often walking down to say hello and enquire about our trip. 

We are now investigating the area, seeking wifi and hot showers - comforts we haven't for a few weeks (my last shower was three weeks ago today).

All the best

Richard

Friday (9th August). During the afternoon Steph, karen and I rowed ashore and made the walk along the spit to the town A distance of just under two miles that due to the loose gravel felt like three times that. On route along the beach we found various carcasses and piles of bones - the local hunters sole remnants of their successes. Steph displayed worrying dentistry skills in removing three teeth from the skull remains of a Walrus. Along the beach there are the remaining structural frames of "Umiak" boats, built from wooden frames which are then covered with Walrus skins (female skins as these have less weak spots created by territorial fighting males with skin damage). traditionally the women used these boats to travel to the summer camps whilst the men went by kayak. When not being used the boats are raised on legs, upturned, to create shelters for the fishermen.

On walking into town we followed a long, 12' black plastic pipe. This feeds the town with drinking water from a river inland, approximately 6 miles away that goes through a modern purification facility. The houses of Point Hope are almost all now fed with mains water and drainage, being completed by a Californian plumber working for the summer here on US$60 / hour for a 60 hour week! He was jovial and talkative and shared plenty of town information. The processed water is held in tanks, with a capacity to provide fresh water for all throughout the long winter months - a capacity of c. 4.5million gallons!

We went to the library (part of the school complex) to catch up on e mails, including a request to speak to BBC Radio Solent but that was for this morning UK time so missed the slot - I sent a number of e mail confirming 0840 hrs BST on Monday instead.

A walk round town led me to the most unusual architectural sight (aside the Town Council Igloo style offices) which was the old remains of an aeroplane fuselage now used as a home extension - complete with cockpit! Elsewhere a pile of whale bones, alongside a number of arches created out of them identified where the town carries out the Nalukataq celebration where the whale meat is distributed around the community, usually around mid summer (June). Some of the bones were from this seasons hunting, still with blood caked on them. As we started the walk back to the dingy we came across the full pelt of  Polar Bear. This was clearly laid out to dry before they use an Ulu and comb like instruments to comb the fur to soften and prepare it. On investigation we learnt that unlike Greenland (and elsewhere) the bears are not considered endangered here, and indeed last winter many were shot within the town. Unlike the whales, there is not a kill quota. One person I met, killed his first when he was nine years old.

Friday evening and we joined Guy & Claire on Balthazar for dinner. We took ours across by dingy and shared in a "pot luck" style meal. It was nice to enjoy the conversation of others and to escape the confines of Dodo's Delight. Balthazar being only slightly larger, but organised, tidy and well thought out clearly impressed on some of our crew who clearly wondered why we didn't have the space or luxuries that they did! On returning to the boat, a Whale surfaced approximately 300 metres away. A Bowhead, identifiable as one of the few without a dorsal fin and though not huge, was still probably 25'. Swimming serenely, only a few hundred metres off the beach it disappeared off along the coastline.

Saturday (10th August). What a great night's sleep - helped by a dryish night and open port hoes meant that at least some of the condensation was carried out on the equally damp air flowing through the aft cabin. When I say aft 'cabin', it is more of a cupboard with a small double berth divided in two by a 12" high piece if plywood. My berth runs between the outboard side of the hull and the cockpit wall. Next to this is the rear half of the engine cover. You can't stand up - unless you are a child and this remaining space measures about 2' x 2'. To the port (left) side are a couple of lockers. One with my kit, carefully separate in waterproof bags, the remaining housing tools, food, wire cutters, fire extinguishers. life jackets and so on.

I spent the morning wiring in the final piece of the auto helm; the fluxgate compass. This was mounted just below the mast at the forward end of the cabin and led aft, under floorboards, up behind drawers and behind cabin linings to the pilot computer. Once connected, I was pleased to see it all working so now, when we finally leave Point Hope we can calibrate it once on the move.

During the afternoon we ran the diesel cabin heater. This is a very efficient heater and within an hour I had managed to ensure the aft "cupboard" was condensation free, at least for now. I spoke to Harriet, my daughter briefly on the sat phone to wish her a happy birthday. Nice to hear a familiar voice.

The latest weather forecast is looking promising - at least in the short term. The wind has already (on Saturday PM) swung to the west and we are hoping to get a 72 hour window to head north - at least to the lagoon off to the North(east?) of Barrow where with a cautious approach and some luck, due to the limited chart accuracy we could sit out any more gales. The aim is to leave tomorrow morning (Sunday 11th August).

Sunday morning we got underway in light SW wind, under motor. First job underway was to calibrate the auto helm - though once done, and the display confirming success, once set after c. 2 minutes the boat was rounding up. I attempted a second calibration. requiring a slow 360 degree circle; twice. To no avail, perhaps the confused sea state affected the calibration. We will await gentler conditions to try again.

Over the past two days I have tried to speak to BBC Radio Solent, and whilst Sophie has been wonderful coordinating an interview for their breakfast slot, to date they have had no luck getting the call through. I have suggested I try and call them tonight (Wednesday AM UK time). We will see if that works. What I do know with Sat phones is perseverance is required!

The breaking news is this morning we had our first icebergs. Mainly growlers (small pieces) but a couple of these were twice the size of the boat. The weather has become significantly colder over the past 24 hours. I've just come off watch wearing 5 top layers and 4 bottom layers - and this is their summer! One of the most frustrating aspect of Dodo's Delight is the steering wheel. Made of stainless steel which is common on yachts, this one has no leather or rubber covering, unlike most yachts. The result is you are steering with a freezing cold wheel, and despite wearing two pairs of gloves, the cold seeps through them.

Over the past 48 hours we have sailed and motored in a wide variety of conditions, ranging from calm seas and sun to thick, damp and chilling fog. We passed to the East of Cape Lisburne Point Lay, Wainwright and are now (Tuesday 13th August) off Barrow, the most northerly part of Alaska. (Position 71 deg 20' min N 156 deg 41' W). We are heading round to anchor in the lagoon to the NE, as having just closed in on the town, which faces West, the conditions are too lumpy to safely anchor, and it would be an onshore wind, not good seamanship! It will be a short stop, mainly to try and top up with fuel, which whilst we have about 100 gallons on board & is enough for 600 miles, we want to be fully loaded as the next leg is potentially the most inhospitable, with no harbours, little refuge and high ice likelihood for a good few hundred miles. 

Sea life is abundant, in addition to various bird species, seals are regular visitors and yesterday more whales. My highlight (aside the bergs of course) was the sighting late last night of two Walrus's. They appeared c. 75 m off the Starboard side, heads high out of the sea, displaying enormous tusks, with beautiful mottled brown skin features. On departing they gave a posers dive so I could see that they were c.12' long, perhaps longer.

Having made it round to the lagoon at Barrow, Bob has decided the conditions are favourable for another 48 hours so we have decided to make Easterly progression whilst this allows. We motored through the lagoon (10-12 miles!) in shallow water - no more than 1.2m under the keel. On exiting the lagoon to the east we ran aground. A three point turn and we motored back the 10-12 miles and exited at the other end, the way we came in! Now heading east once more.

Richard

There is a gale due in from the east tonight (15th August) so Dodo's Delight is heading for Barter Island to find shelter and a wifi signal but hopefully not polar bears.

Dodo's Delight has turned the corner past Barrow Point and is now heading East.  This is a major milestone in their epic voyage.

First growlers were spotted this morning.

Next stop is 600 miles away - the same distance as the Fastnet race which is currently underway. Although Dodo's Delight will be considerably slower than a racing yacht! 

Text update from Richard - "We are 50 miles from Barrow Point. Temperature is dropping, wind and ice forecast is good until Weds. Saw a walrus earlier!"

0900 Monday 12th August.
Dodo's Delight is approaching Point Ley. Foggy and damp.  6kts under power, no wind.

6th August 2210 hrs (0710 7/8 UK)

Quiet day. I was on anchor watch from 0400-0600 and then stayed up for an hour or so.  After an omelette brunch we lifted the anchor and once more motored closer to the town ship c. 2 nm West. We dropped anchor and leaving Bob onboard went ashore to fill the limited water cans we have up. These consist of well used, former 1 gallon juice bottles! Having previously met the mayor we went to the town offices, which are housed in what resembles a huge igloo. Actually a prefabricated 1970's structure that clearly leaks (buckets on the floor around the inside). It also doubles as the community bingo hall - and bingo in Alaska is a big thing! Point Hope operate their own desalination plant for water.

The library was temporarily closed so I downloaded my last blog entry from their external steps. As the wind swung east we returned to the boat and moved west once more to anchor. 

Dinner was fish pie, using the left overs of a large Arctic Chard (a salmon family) that we bought yesterday from a local fisherman for US$20. These fishermen use drift nets from the steeply sloped beach and looking at his haul, are clearly very successful. Point Hope relies heavily on local hunting and fishing. Seals are caught and the town has a whaling quota, this year of 10 whales. To date they have caught 5 (Beluga and grey Bowheads - though they find Beluga meat too rich!). Apparently their sizes are down on last year. They keep the boats in the lagoon to the north of the town, from which they have to sail parallel to the coast for 10 miles before they can leave the lagoon for the open sea.

7th August 1015 hrs (1915 7/8 UK)

A quiet night, some local Easterly wind came in but the prevailing Northerly is still out there. Late in the evening a tug, towing a 2-250' barge started circling offshore - clearly taking shelter from the stronger wide offshore and to the north. It continues to circle now at 1015 hrs Wednesday morning.

Near critical issue just now, whilst reading I hear "running water" in the aft cabin. With so much moisture building up below decks it is important where possible (at anchor) to have port holes open and a through flow of air… David in his wisdom was washing clothes in a bucket and rather than throwing the water over the side was pouring it down the cockpit combings and thence through the port hole. The result one damp sleeping bag, clothes and nearly my lap top - fortunately this was inside its case. My kit is now drying in the wind - which is however damp and the items salt laden so unlikely to be fully dry in the near future as salt water has a tendency to never dry completely. 

An early morning e mail to Bob, the skipper from a contact who monitors NW expeditions advised us that a couple of expedition attempts approaching from the East are having similar problems, namely; adverse wind direction and heavy pack ice. They are sitting it out like us but as every day passes I am more concerned than ever that we will get our weather (and ice) break. Even if the ice clears a little and we make the attempt, this years weather raises the concern that it could change again leaving us trapped in the ice - something I joked about with friends before departure but now something we logically and seriously have to weigh up - A 33' GRP production bat is not something you want to be on when the ice squeezes in around you and starts to drive you onto a lee shore, hundreds of miles from civilisation and out of range of the limited resources that feature up here.

I am also aware of the great sponsorship support for the Ellen MacArthur Cancer Trust that so many have contributed to. It was never a definite that this expedition was a dead cert or that it was a 'walk in the park' and perhaps we all have been too confident that the NW Passage was now easily doable as a result of global warming and the huge steps made in terms of communications, forecasts and equipment over the past 90 years during which year on year successes have increased. It is definitely looking like 2013 is the year where this pattern is interrupted.

7th August 2030 hrs (0530 8/8 UK)

I have spent the majority of the day installing the Autohelm self steering system that Bob bought in the US and I brought out the part he had omitted (the control head (or cockpit display). Prior to leaving Nome I fitted the wheel mounted drive unit (as the wheel required to be removed that was the logical thing to do in the safety of Nome harbour). Today was fitting the cabling, the helm computer and the cockpit control unit. The wiring on Dodo's Delight is a complex web of old, older and not so old with a few more recent additions. It appears that redundant cables are just left in place and even the defunct autopilot parts are to be found. By dinner the drive unit, control unit and computer were all installed in their relevant positions and connected to one another.  Power and grounding (earthing) made and the unit is live -just awaiting the fluxgate compass to be fitted and then calibration. Lets hope we have need to use it now!

8th August 2035 hrs (0534 9/8 UK)

A cold, wet and windy day. Gusting force 7-8. Mid morning we re-anchored having dragged c. 300m from 4 to 7 m in depth. Otherwise sitting it out. Pleased with the advice of Vendee and offshore sailor Alex Thomson in bringing an chamois leather out here - useful to keep the condensation build up below at controllable levels.

9th August 1315 hrs (2215 9/8 UK)

Wind looking to break Sunday. Hope to head north then, however the likelihood of making it more than a few hundred miles East is still a concern. Also autumn up here is not far away. During the night, French Canadian yacht Balthazar with Guy and Claire the owners aboard (who had crossed paths last season with Dodo's Delight and then wintered in the Mackenize river) sailed south from Wainwright and anchored 400 m from us. Bob, Steph and I rowed across for coffee and hellos. They had brought a bottle of wine from Fort Ross (E end of Bellow straight) which had been left in the old Hudson Bay Trading Post by the owner of another boat, Billy Budd, which Bob had worked aboard as ice pilot. This afternoon we aim to row ashore to try and download e mails in Point Hope.

Yesterday PM was the first time I realised that actually this expedition may be halted by the ice… I really didn't think that after 89 years the ice would be the worst in all that time (allegedly), but early this morning I was looking at the ice chart and it really is impassable for a stretch of 350-400 miles.


Dodo's Delight remains anchored 2 nm East of Point Hope. The weather forecast continues to predict northerly winds for the coming 5-7 days, which in turn is pushing ice south. Things aren't looking good. Communications with David Scott Cowper, aboard "Polar Bound" located further south in Dutch Harbour confirms our fears that we are running out of time (Scott Cowper was the first person to navigate the NW Passage single handed and is another experienced Arctic Explorer with a purpose designed and built motor yacht for the Arctic elements).

The open ice pack season in the Arctic is shorter to the West than it is in the East. We have a 1000 mile passage to make with no real cover and are very reliant on favourable winds. How long can we sit here, restlessly wanting to move north then East? Once we have made the dash across the north of Alaska things will become easier. Places to run to in inclement weather and from 125 degrees west the coast changes from an uninspiring tundra to a maze of inlets, islands, navigable sounds and thinner ice.

The normal navigable passage season is in August and September, and as we are basically treading water every day that passes makes success less likely - at least in 2013. Whilst the past two decades have seen the ice melt increase in longevity year on year, 2013 had been to date a reversion of the trend. Many are talking about it being a "bad ice year". 

We are in communication with a couple of other boats attempting the passage both from our side (the West) and from the Atlantic. All are concerned. At present the ice is between 5 & 7/10ths from Barrow East for a distance of approx. 350 miles - impassable by most yachts, including Dodo's Delight.

Last night we had a crew discussion on options. If we get a break, we potentially could get to 135 degrees west before the winter bites back. At this longitude the Mackenzie river runs inland into the canadian Yukon territory and c. 120 miles inland there lies the town of Inuvik - a potential wintering hide. However the Mackenzie river has a complex outfall into the Arctic Ocean with many lagoons and tributaries with limited accurate charts. Just getting up the river would cause challenges.

So for now we sit and wait, fingers and toes crossed that we get a consistent Northerly.

Whilst we are protected, and have now found good holding (for the anchor), cabin fever is now on the cards. Five people, all with very different characters, on a small boat which is damp, condensation running everywhere, food staples being tinned varieties and the constant movement is bound to bring friction. We did buy two loaves of bread from the Native Store in Point Hope yesterday - US$10 a loaf! Our living area is little bigger than a garden shed or small bathroom.

The Isle of Wight County Press's weekly column on Richard is online.

We departed Nome at 0800 hrs (1700 hrs GMTl) on Tuesday 30th July. A surprisingly warm southerly wind pushing us north, aided by a 1-2 knot current flowing from the Pacific into the Arctic ocean and being squeezed through the Bering Straight.

With just a few sea birds to keep us company two hour watches began. By early afternoon our first problem arose. The engine, aiding our northerly course stalled and wouldn't start. I was off watch and asleep. Unbeknown to me, once again the skipper and crew of the good ship "Dodo's Delight" see me as the fixer (more recently this role has become official). An hour later, I had replaced both fuel filters (the old ones looking in good fettle however) and the air filter had been cleaned, dried and reinstalled. The engine fired back into life and our progress north was once again sped up.

The need for the engine at this stage is not critical, we have sea room (space) but as we close in to the NW corner of Alaska, should the weather turn foul, the likelihood of no escape routes, shallow water and on shore winds makes having an engine all the more reassuring. 

Whales were spotted twice over the first 48 hours, on both occasions some 400 metres away, minding their own business, their flukes lifting 2-3 metres in the air before they dived. 

By Wednesday evening we had received updated weather and ice forecasts, these can be irregular in this part of the world, and often conflicting depending on where they come from. Northerly winds (to F7) were due towards the end of the week, this gave us us few options than to look for shelter. One thing I should make clear - this boat, with the weight of stores and equipment we are carrying, is not designed to go to windward unless you are desperate.

Unlike the Solent, Alaska only has one marina (so I found in the Alaskan equivalent of Yellow Pages!) - which is no where near where we are going, so our time is spent scouring charts looking for bolt holes - safe potential anchorages. We aimed for Point Hope, the last peninsula "sticking out" to the west of Alaska before we can start slowly heading East to Barrow. The benefit of Point Barrow is that is had two potential anchorages, one north protecting us from the southerly wind and one south doing the opposite. Many of these peninsulas are interwoven with lagoons, some of which in the right conditions we could attempt to enter to be even more secure in a gale.

Asleep once more off watch, the engine died and again wouldn't' start. Confident the issue was not fuel filter or air filter based I quietly set about working out what it could be. I am no engineer -  but pragmatic and practical & I enjoy tinkering and  know "there is always a way to resolve"! Conclusion was that the glow plugs were not helping to start, and the injectors could be an issue once the engine was firing. The former are all now replaced with pre-used spares. The injectors will have to wait for another day as they are torqued up and I fear breaking something if I try to force them. However so far so good and the engine is running once more. And all this soon after someone had managed to block the heads (toilet)… guess who had the lovely job of unblocking it!

Thursday 01 August and we anchored to the north of Point Barrow of a lagoon. Desolate, cold at night despite the almost constant daylight. We are now well inside the Arctic circle. The holding (seabed) is like marbles - so getting an anchor to hold takes perseverance. 

I have been in offshore sailing attire since we departed on Tuesday, my wonderfully warm Slam thermals, mid layer thermals and outers, though so far no need for oilskins. I have been wearing my new Dubarry Crosshaven boots since departure and have to say I'm impressed. With leather and Gore-tex structure they are soft, comfortable and allow the feet to breath so no other shoes (or boots) are needed. Bearing in mind we have limited fresh water, no water maker and I had luggage allowances to con side, it is far to say clothes changes are infrequent (read = none to date).

On Friday we motored south around Point Hope as the forecast Northerly breeze approached and anchored close to the settlement. A landing craft acting as a supply tug with a barge alongside was unloading directly onto the beach-head. As the night came in the and increased to F6 the wind suddenly veered to the East. Despite having 50m of chain and two anchors out in 6m of water  woke to hear activity. Getting on deck  could see the breaking sea on the beach c.70m away and we started to raise the anchor. This the the anchor windlass was not working so it was a heavy work, but soon we were in open water and hove to (backing the sails to leave us effectively stationary, wallowing in confused seas but safe from danger). The tug and barge team had the same issues and had withdrawn offshore slowly motoring in circles, despite being 120' and 250' respectively. 

On the morning of Sunday 4th August we were back into the lee of the new Northerly wind at the south side of Point Hope. We moored c.2miles further East in a more consistent depth of 5m. This time the anchor has held well. The forecast (strong Northerly's up to F.7) has us here for potentially 5 days so despite discussing options to head back to Nome to sit it out, or indeed to Kotezebue, a town 120 miles to theSE we are in favour of waiting. During Sunday, the now official "Mr Fix It - myself" traced the anchor windlass wiring and found a poor electrical connection… now repaired we have the luxury of a winch to lift the anchor once more!

Monday's plan is to go ashore and explore the delights of Point Hope, establish if we can top up on fuel and water supplies. We know the village (population 764) has a general store and a hotel! The former is important to me as I have found we are missing one critical ingredient within our stores: tinned tomatoes.

Brief text from the Sat Phone - "We are at Point Hope, circa 300 miles north of Nome.  Northerly winds are closing the ice, so we are waiting here for Southerly winds to return.

I spent the first 2 days at sea fixing the engine, touch wood I've sorted it!"