Friday 23 August
We woke to the greeting of light snow on deck. The residents of Tuk fast asleep at this early hour. Indeed many sleep until well after midday and stay up well into the early hours. The first problem of the day arose as we tried to connect the newly acquired propane cylinder. Despite having Canadian, British and Danish (Greenland) regulators none would fit. The Canadian one being the right thread diameter but the wrong thread size. So straight onto gas rationing before the first cup of tea of the day. We swiftly left the pier, our home from the past few days and calibrated, this time successfully the Auto-helm computer. Motoring out of the natural harbour the winds were light. Once again we swiftly got into our watch routine. Bob concocted dinner; his usual which consists of spam, tinned sweet corn, tinned mushrooms and rice. Much of this is left on the work surface and behind the cooker much to the frustration of Karen and Steph.
Friday can best be described as nondescript. Temperatures were falling, so it was time for a new layer of clothing; the excellent Slam Blow jacket, which whilst light and thin is very warm. This addition taking the total on my top half to six (all fairly thin layers). Likewise the Dubarry boots that I have worn solely since departing Nome were replaced with sheepskin lined boots Sophie had bought me. Not very sailing like, but whilst the conditions were smooth these more than amply dealt with the temperature drop.
Saturday 24 August
Awaking before dawn, to a change in engine noise as the boat slowed I dressed for my 0300-0500 hrs watch. My head, when in my bunk, is only about 3' from the engine so I notice the slightest alteration in throttle. On going on deck Bob and David were peering towards a long, low horizon made up of ice. The ice chart from the previous evening had shown a significant pack running NW to SE. As I took over watch we agreed to retrace our track to a safe distance and lie a hull, whilst waiting for daylight. Once in clear water I drifted for an hour in fairly calm conditions. As dawn came it appeared to me that we could arc around the ice inshore, heading slowly south, then south east and then easy and north east. This appeared to be a shorter route than heading off shore. Leaving Steph on watch she started this procedure until such a time that the ice pack was found to be broken and we could wiggle our way between the small bergs and low lying growlers. As a result of this "shove" to the East we were to pass through Snowgoose Pass, a channel between Cape Bathurst and the Baillie Islands.
During the morning I climbed the mast to the spreaders to get some photos. The task significantly easier than I am used to being aided by mast steps fixed every 2' up the spar. On exiting Snowgoose we made tracks towards Booth Islands, 50 nm away to the East. It was here that we planned to RV with David Scott Cowper aboard Polar Bound (a purpose built high latitude motor boat) who was following us about a day's steaming astern. Booth Islands are made up of two islands, one north, one south. I was quietly hoping that we would steam straight past - the ice conditions to the East still hampering the few Westbound boats this season and I don't want to miss any opportunity to get through.
I received a text (via the sat phone kindly provided by Datasharp IC) from Sophie giving me the great news that the fundraising for the Ellen Macarthur Cancer Trust has hit £2500 including gift aid - it would be great to hit £3k!
As Saturday progressed the ice thinned. Watches were enjoyable as the broken ice resemble a scattered, broken jigsaw and allows the helm to play dodges. Each piece of ice having it's own structure and shape, some smooth and sweeping, others jagged and sharp. They become almost magnetic to the helm as you inadvertently want to get closer to inspect them. The ice at this stage on the far horizon looked continuous, but as you approach natural, weaving passes allow you to slip through between the growlers.
By late Saturday night Steph, Karen and Bob anchored to the north end of Summer Harbour at Booth Island. This large, natural harbour is a wonderfully protected anchorage with a small entrance. Despite being bleak, uninhabited, and having little if any fauna the biggest surprise is the damn big mooring buoy in the middle of the bay! The pilotage book however reveals that as the water in the bay is deep, it is the best storm shelterage for commercial ships using the area so that may be the reason the buoy (and I presume a big anchor and chain attached to it) is there.
Sunday 25 August
I was up first and on deck watching the sun rise to the NE. As the others woke and there was no sign of Polar Bound we weighed anchor and headed out of the harbour. The winds were light southerly and we turned to Port past Police Point and Devon Point. Located at the former is another of the dubious looking manmade settlements we have already experienced throughout the northern coast of Canada and Alaska. Located at specifically determined places are military or government establishments. Usually built on high ground, with panoramic vistas across the sea these developments were mainly early warning stations built during the cold war. Known as DEW (Distance Early Warning) lines, their functions remain, in many cases supplemented as meteorological, radar, radio or listening establishments. They have an eerie feel about them. Rarely are people seen, they are formed of modern boxy, abrupt and angular buildings, with domes, dishes and golf ball like structures nearby. More often than not large tanks are located close to the shore, no doubt holding fuel and water brought in during the summer months by tug and barge. These places basically resemble the "baddies lair" from a James Bond film - you get the picture!
Later in the morning, Cowper emailed to say he was having the same issue with ice as we had at the Baillie Islands, but due to his approaching bearing he was heading round it to the NW, I imagine a significantly longer detour than our own.
With Cambridge Bay c. 400 nm away were were back into routine after our "night off" and passed Cape Lyon to starboard. The topography started to change. The land becoming higher, but remaining desolate, dull and colourless (unless you are fond of grey and beige). In fact, over the past few weeks I have become more longing for hills, mountains and greenery. In fact it is like sailing alongside Chesil beach, just this version of Chesil is literally hundreds of miles long. If NASA did fake the moon landing, I'm pretty sure they came here to film it.
Monday 26 August
At 0300 hrs a large tug towing two huge barges in line passed to starboard. Steph called to me as I was still awake and as they clearly had tried to contact us on the VHF were now morse coding us using their search light. The size of which would light the average residential street in an average sized town. Now aside the one morse code that every school boy knows my knowledge has waned over the years and deciding that deciphering their message was going to take to long we flicked the VHF on and had a chat. They had been holed out near Cambridge Bay waiting for a storm to pass through and advised us that another tug was coming our way 24 hrs behind them. The skipper also concurred with our experience that the weather forecasts were not representing what we were finding in reality. Just before signing out the skipper mentioned he had spare propane… just has they were disappearing over the horizon, It was a kind gesture but we decided to plough on.
Midmorning news was that Cowper was making progress after also stopping in Summer Harbour and had suggested another RV location of Bernard Harbour. He has invited the Dodo'd Delight crew over for dinner.
Dodo's Delight, much to the crews delight, has a small diesel heater on board. After gentle persuasion by Karen the heater has become a regular highlight of the day. For me it is the opportunity to dry out my bunk. This is located directly against the fibreglass hull. With the cold sea lapping the hull condensation quickly forms. Despite the use if a foam bedding role to aid insulation a small lake builds up. The only glitch to the heater is that the aft cabin vent is located adjacent to David's side of the bunk. Now David likes to sleep… a lot. We have three, 2 hour watches per 24 hours and I am gradually educating the skipper that the only time I benefit is if David is on watch, otherwise the only outcome is David getting a toasted thigh.
By Monday evening we were closing in to Dolphin and Union Strait with Cape's Young, Hope and Bexley running along our starboard side. To Port was the Wollaston Peninsula of Victoria Island. The sea colour had become less grey, with everything from topaz blue (in the sun), dark emerald and royal blues. The wonderful thing about this region, despite concerns regarding global warming and oil and mineral exploration, is that the sea is clean. There is no man made waste floating by. In fact aside the odd piece of driftwood there is no pollution visible.
During my evening watch I assembled the underwater videoing framework and rigged up the cameras and light so that we can get on with the seabed recording (more in regards to this research at a later stage). This was time shared with the latest book I have on the go and having since finished it can't recommend it highly enough: Attention All Shipping by Charlie Connelly. Brilliantly written and highly entertaining. Just before I ended my late watch the most spectacular sunset was thrown across the expanse of sea trailing behind the boat. I was mesmerised for about 45 minutes watching the sun drop to the horizon and below. The colours of tango orange and canary yellows were absolutely indescribable. Before silence and sleep (aside the lone watch keeper_ descended across the boat Bob made the decision not to stop at Bernard Harbour to which I gave (inside my head at least) a big Yeh!
Richard
We woke to the greeting of light snow on deck. The residents of Tuk fast asleep at this early hour. Indeed many sleep until well after midday and stay up well into the early hours. The first problem of the day arose as we tried to connect the newly acquired propane cylinder. Despite having Canadian, British and Danish (Greenland) regulators none would fit. The Canadian one being the right thread diameter but the wrong thread size. So straight onto gas rationing before the first cup of tea of the day. We swiftly left the pier, our home from the past few days and calibrated, this time successfully the Auto-helm computer. Motoring out of the natural harbour the winds were light. Once again we swiftly got into our watch routine. Bob concocted dinner; his usual which consists of spam, tinned sweet corn, tinned mushrooms and rice. Much of this is left on the work surface and behind the cooker much to the frustration of Karen and Steph.
Friday can best be described as nondescript. Temperatures were falling, so it was time for a new layer of clothing; the excellent Slam Blow jacket, which whilst light and thin is very warm. This addition taking the total on my top half to six (all fairly thin layers). Likewise the Dubarry boots that I have worn solely since departing Nome were replaced with sheepskin lined boots Sophie had bought me. Not very sailing like, but whilst the conditions were smooth these more than amply dealt with the temperature drop.
Saturday 24 August
Awaking before dawn, to a change in engine noise as the boat slowed I dressed for my 0300-0500 hrs watch. My head, when in my bunk, is only about 3' from the engine so I notice the slightest alteration in throttle. On going on deck Bob and David were peering towards a long, low horizon made up of ice. The ice chart from the previous evening had shown a significant pack running NW to SE. As I took over watch we agreed to retrace our track to a safe distance and lie a hull, whilst waiting for daylight. Once in clear water I drifted for an hour in fairly calm conditions. As dawn came it appeared to me that we could arc around the ice inshore, heading slowly south, then south east and then easy and north east. This appeared to be a shorter route than heading off shore. Leaving Steph on watch she started this procedure until such a time that the ice pack was found to be broken and we could wiggle our way between the small bergs and low lying growlers. As a result of this "shove" to the East we were to pass through Snowgoose Pass, a channel between Cape Bathurst and the Baillie Islands.
During the morning I climbed the mast to the spreaders to get some photos. The task significantly easier than I am used to being aided by mast steps fixed every 2' up the spar. On exiting Snowgoose we made tracks towards Booth Islands, 50 nm away to the East. It was here that we planned to RV with David Scott Cowper aboard Polar Bound (a purpose built high latitude motor boat) who was following us about a day's steaming astern. Booth Islands are made up of two islands, one north, one south. I was quietly hoping that we would steam straight past - the ice conditions to the East still hampering the few Westbound boats this season and I don't want to miss any opportunity to get through.
I received a text (via the sat phone kindly provided by Datasharp IC) from Sophie giving me the great news that the fundraising for the Ellen Macarthur Cancer Trust has hit £2500 including gift aid - it would be great to hit £3k!
As Saturday progressed the ice thinned. Watches were enjoyable as the broken ice resemble a scattered, broken jigsaw and allows the helm to play dodges. Each piece of ice having it's own structure and shape, some smooth and sweeping, others jagged and sharp. They become almost magnetic to the helm as you inadvertently want to get closer to inspect them. The ice at this stage on the far horizon looked continuous, but as you approach natural, weaving passes allow you to slip through between the growlers.
By late Saturday night Steph, Karen and Bob anchored to the north end of Summer Harbour at Booth Island. This large, natural harbour is a wonderfully protected anchorage with a small entrance. Despite being bleak, uninhabited, and having little if any fauna the biggest surprise is the damn big mooring buoy in the middle of the bay! The pilotage book however reveals that as the water in the bay is deep, it is the best storm shelterage for commercial ships using the area so that may be the reason the buoy (and I presume a big anchor and chain attached to it) is there.
Sunday 25 August
I was up first and on deck watching the sun rise to the NE. As the others woke and there was no sign of Polar Bound we weighed anchor and headed out of the harbour. The winds were light southerly and we turned to Port past Police Point and Devon Point. Located at the former is another of the dubious looking manmade settlements we have already experienced throughout the northern coast of Canada and Alaska. Located at specifically determined places are military or government establishments. Usually built on high ground, with panoramic vistas across the sea these developments were mainly early warning stations built during the cold war. Known as DEW (Distance Early Warning) lines, their functions remain, in many cases supplemented as meteorological, radar, radio or listening establishments. They have an eerie feel about them. Rarely are people seen, they are formed of modern boxy, abrupt and angular buildings, with domes, dishes and golf ball like structures nearby. More often than not large tanks are located close to the shore, no doubt holding fuel and water brought in during the summer months by tug and barge. These places basically resemble the "baddies lair" from a James Bond film - you get the picture!
Later in the morning, Cowper emailed to say he was having the same issue with ice as we had at the Baillie Islands, but due to his approaching bearing he was heading round it to the NW, I imagine a significantly longer detour than our own.
With Cambridge Bay c. 400 nm away were were back into routine after our "night off" and passed Cape Lyon to starboard. The topography started to change. The land becoming higher, but remaining desolate, dull and colourless (unless you are fond of grey and beige). In fact, over the past few weeks I have become more longing for hills, mountains and greenery. In fact it is like sailing alongside Chesil beach, just this version of Chesil is literally hundreds of miles long. If NASA did fake the moon landing, I'm pretty sure they came here to film it.
Monday 26 August
At 0300 hrs a large tug towing two huge barges in line passed to starboard. Steph called to me as I was still awake and as they clearly had tried to contact us on the VHF were now morse coding us using their search light. The size of which would light the average residential street in an average sized town. Now aside the one morse code that every school boy knows my knowledge has waned over the years and deciding that deciphering their message was going to take to long we flicked the VHF on and had a chat. They had been holed out near Cambridge Bay waiting for a storm to pass through and advised us that another tug was coming our way 24 hrs behind them. The skipper also concurred with our experience that the weather forecasts were not representing what we were finding in reality. Just before signing out the skipper mentioned he had spare propane… just has they were disappearing over the horizon, It was a kind gesture but we decided to plough on.
Midmorning news was that Cowper was making progress after also stopping in Summer Harbour and had suggested another RV location of Bernard Harbour. He has invited the Dodo'd Delight crew over for dinner.
Dodo's Delight, much to the crews delight, has a small diesel heater on board. After gentle persuasion by Karen the heater has become a regular highlight of the day. For me it is the opportunity to dry out my bunk. This is located directly against the fibreglass hull. With the cold sea lapping the hull condensation quickly forms. Despite the use if a foam bedding role to aid insulation a small lake builds up. The only glitch to the heater is that the aft cabin vent is located adjacent to David's side of the bunk. Now David likes to sleep… a lot. We have three, 2 hour watches per 24 hours and I am gradually educating the skipper that the only time I benefit is if David is on watch, otherwise the only outcome is David getting a toasted thigh.
By Monday evening we were closing in to Dolphin and Union Strait with Cape's Young, Hope and Bexley running along our starboard side. To Port was the Wollaston Peninsula of Victoria Island. The sea colour had become less grey, with everything from topaz blue (in the sun), dark emerald and royal blues. The wonderful thing about this region, despite concerns regarding global warming and oil and mineral exploration, is that the sea is clean. There is no man made waste floating by. In fact aside the odd piece of driftwood there is no pollution visible.
During my evening watch I assembled the underwater videoing framework and rigged up the cameras and light so that we can get on with the seabed recording (more in regards to this research at a later stage). This was time shared with the latest book I have on the go and having since finished it can't recommend it highly enough: Attention All Shipping by Charlie Connelly. Brilliantly written and highly entertaining. Just before I ended my late watch the most spectacular sunset was thrown across the expanse of sea trailing behind the boat. I was mesmerised for about 45 minutes watching the sun drop to the horizon and below. The colours of tango orange and canary yellows were absolutely indescribable. Before silence and sleep (aside the lone watch keeper_ descended across the boat Bob made the decision not to stop at Bernard Harbour to which I gave (inside my head at least) a big Yeh!
Richard
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