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Dealing with Wind, Ice & catching the Gap

31/7/2013

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Bowhead whale bones and Iñupiaq boat frames at Point Barrow, Alaska.
We have two natural elements to deal with on our trip… Wind and Ice.

We will benefit from wind from the South (or between SE to WSW or as close to).

Ice thickness is measured in tenths… 10/10th is impossible (even for purpose built ice breakers) - up to 4/10th is explorable by us… though we actually will only be able to get through 2 or 3/10ths and need in an ideal world 2/10th or lower.

Anything against this makes it difficult, at time dangerous (a North wind means an on shore wind - and we will have "no where to go" - and the coast is very shallow), 4/10th ice or more will certainly stop the boat, and combined with an adverse wind can break the boat.

Tomorrow (July 30th) we are going to try and catch the gap…. what is that? 

We are effectively 500 miles south of Barrow Point - which is the NW corner of Alaska (nice views of Russia). That's 4-5 days in this boat. We also have light winds from the S - SW so will be having to do some under engine (to hit the timeframe - and this will give me time to complete the auto pilot installation). 

Major issue there is NO WHERE to run to for the coming 800 miles - no storm shelter, no harbour and we are expecting  a Northerly (possibly  gale) at the end of the week. Worst case we get there and have to do a 180 degrees turn and run south again. But the skipper asked our views - and bearing in mind how long the others have been waiting - the unanimous view was to give it a go. I am now actually looking at the storm shelters as I am more ambitious at finding a hole we can drop into. The biggest issue is water depth as it is so shallow, and the approach has (as viewed from the approaching plane) so many moveable sand banks / spits.

Please, if you could spare even a fiver, do sponsor me by supporting the Ellen MacArthur Cancer Trust - all monies donated go directly to the charity. 

Now it's time to see how I can work the sat phone, as the next update will come from that!

Richard Over & Out.
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First post from Nome...

31/7/2013

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Well I arrived Nome Sunday early to be collected on a quad bike by our skipper. Our 33' home for the coming months is not what I expected. Imagine a well stocked gypsy caravan that has been drawn around the world… twice. We have everything and more. I am not worried about equipment levels but about severe weather (which we will have) and what impact (literally) this will have on the boat should we be knocked down. 

The boat has loose kit everywhere so thats been a focus, she is also quiet 'well used' another focus! Clearly the past Alaskan winter has had its toll… and whilst cleaning has taken place she needs some maintenance. 

Saturday was easy for me the latecomer, I explored the delights of Nome (took me 1 hr - Steph another crew member has been here 3 weeks and knows everyone and everything). Nome is famous for two things, being a WW1 airbase for the USA, and being the Bering Sea Gold rush town. The former still shows more recent cold war early warning equipment - now being decommissioned. The latter is very active. 

In my view, having worked in the Southern United States, Americans can be a little naive at times. I am finding the locals - and the "down from towners" - whether Californian, Virginian or New Yorkers very worldly, pleasant & interesting  - a nice surprise! However Nome is very basic, in mid winter it would be very harsh here. Pick ups - until they stop running are big, rusty and dirty. The town is sprawling, tired, and simple. The "scrap yards" (back yards) are littered with cast off machines - boats, skidoos, pick ups (& more pick ups). The homes - at least externally - would be viewed as most in the UK as ready for a bulldozer. But generosity is evident, interest is there and Alaska has a great feel for the recent blow in from Cowes IoW!

Today (Monday), I walked along the dirt roads to AC's, the local supermarket - and only in the USA can a town that is so bleak, in some ways deprived and simple, have a supermarket that sells everything - Quad bikes to carrots! Oh and Wifi! Then Bob (the skipper) passed me the various boxes of an auto-helm (mechanical / electrical self steering equipment for a yacht) and suggested as I am the youngest (and therefore the most tech savvy!) I should fit it - little does he know about me. However at time of writing I'm pleased to say all the mechanics are installed (today we had no rain) externally and tomorrow I start the electronics.

The intention is not to sit and enjoy Nome but to do the NW Passage!
We have two natural elements to deal with… Wind and Ice.  More on that later.

Bye for now, Richard


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I am off!

26/7/2013

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My Passport arrived back from the US Embassy this morning with a Visa so I depart early tomorrow morning! Goodbye sunshine - hello Ice!
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Datasharp sponsor communications

25/7/2013

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"We are proud sponsor of Richard Nicolson’s North West Passage record breaking attempt, pleased to be involved in the ecological studies, whilst making our small contribution to The Ellen MacArthur Cancer Trust. Datasharp have supplied an Iridium satellite phone for the expedition."

Datasharp Integrated Communications are part of a national group with huge resources and purchasing power, whilst giving clients the exceptional levels of service and support you would expect from their local friendly dealer.

Since 1980 Datasharp has built its reputation on supplying clients with exactly the communications package they need to carry their businesses forward. We offer industry leading technology and systems that are cutting edge yet proven, feature packed yet dependable, efficient, designed for purpose and cost effective.

But it’s much more than that. Above all it’s about relationships. We thrive on and value the reciprocal partnerships that develop between us and our clients as we support them and they learn to trust us implicitly. It’s what makes us tick…

Having a National presence places Datasharp in an enviable position. Our current suppliers constantly strive to offer us the highest level of support to keep us one step ahead of the technology and opposition, and other manufacturers are always keen to forge relationships with us, allowing us to offer our clients the latest and best voice and data technology.

Our emphasis has always been on exceptional service, i.e. customer satisfaction in both the products we supply and the support we give. All the technology we supply has Remote Diagnostics capability as standard and our constantly staffed helpdesk can always dial in and remotely problem solve and mend. This is supported by local field engineers to resolve matters should they require a site visit. As a gauge of the quality of the work we carry out, only 5% of all our engineering time is taken up with fault repair and diagnosis.

Datasharp offers a full service that covers consultancy, project management, sales, installation, maintenance and training; which means from the moment you contact us we’re there to support and advise you.

Call Freephone 08000 328 274 or email support@datasharp-ic.co.uk

www.datasharp-ic.co.uk

Datasharp Integrated Communications


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Isle of Wight County Press

24/7/2013

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Introduction article in the Isle of Wight County Press - when communications allow I hope to be able to get updates to them during the expedition.

Here's the article online.

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Ready for departure... or not?

22/7/2013

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So the warm (dare I say hot!) weekend was spent finalising all things domestic (bear in mind I will have three months without a postal service or the ability easily to pay the bills), checking and double checking my kit list, ensuring as much as possible is packed in water proof liners (see image left of basic personal kit prior to packing) and collecting last minute spares requested from the team already languishing in Nome, Alaska.

In theory I am to depart tomorrow, HOWEVER as of now I don't have my US visa, nor my passport both which are at the US Embassy - so it looks like a day or two of travel delay which in the current weather I normally wouldn't mind, however the ice is starting to recede and the crew are patiently waiting for me, furthermore what I thought were good value one way air tickets are now about to become much more costly.

However safe to say we are definitely on count down!

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Update for the penultimate week before departure

12/7/2013

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Well what a week! Kit has arrived from SLAM... thanks to all of the team, in particular James for putting it together and supporting the expedition in so may ways - more to follow on the SLAM kit performance in the Arctic - but it is of great quality and design.

Main issue (and I won't dwell on it in case I come up against a wikileaks scenario): BUT the US London Embassy have created a load of hurdles to my trip - as of now I can't get a visa... but as the ice is still thick in Alaska, and this is just another challenge to make it all successful.

Thank you all for the huge fund raising success so far for the Ellen MacArthur Trust.. with gift aid included we are very close to half way of the target (perhaps we should think of increasing the target... please continue to support, donate and help this wonderful charity that REALLY makes a difference!

I went to the dentists today - the ladies running and managing the reception there were so enthusiastic about the trip... go on girls get the surgery to advertise the great fund raising cause!

So I have a little time out on Sunday - off to The Goodwood Festival of Speed.... talk about chalk and chease!

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    Richard Nicolson - Sailing West to East across the North West Passage in aid of the Ellen MacArthur Cancer Trust.

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