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Aasiaat and back: The conclusion

16/10/2013

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Tuesday 8th October:

I'm flying above Iceland  heading for Copenhagen and thence to London Gatwick. The sun is already starting to set over the starboard wing of the only 'long haul' plane in the Air Greenland fleet. I'm in a reflective mood. I've never liked blogs, journals, biographies or books that simply relate to the days events… and yet I have fallen into the very same trap of late and written my blog in exactly that manner: Monday, got up, ate, experienced something, read this book and went to bed… how dreadfully dull! 

It's two weeks since the crew of Dodo's Delight arrived in Aasiaat, Greenland and concluded the passage from Nome Alaska. The arrival on Wednesday 25th September was neither the high that many would expect as a result of achieving something quite challenging, nor was it immediately felt as the end of one thing and the beginning of another. To me, it was the natural conclusion of what I had expected.

As previously mentioned, our arrival into Aasiaat wasn't without it's drama. We avoided losing the mast and rigging to a fishing boats stern gear, but during the avoiding process we bent the rear goal post, lost the expensive wind generator overboard, ripped from it's 3" stainless post. Aside that, we had an uneventful approach. After settling alongside the fishing boat pier we spent over a week enjoying Aasiaat. 

Steph and David tried to fish for the lost generator to no success. Being purposely aerodynamic there was nothing to hook onto, and in 7 metres of water at low tide diving options were being considered. Then one day, Pelle and I had a go. Pelle is the owner of  'Anna' who has also come through the passage and has become a good friend. He and I had a collection of implements in the dingy including a heavy fishing line with a three pronged hook. Pelle almost caught the generator soon after catching and reeling in the ugliest fish I have seen - the fish went back to the ocean. A few minutes later I had the generator grappled with the dingy anchor and despite a few wet sleeves we had it back. That afternoon I stripped it apart, liberally washed and dried it, soaked it in NASA's well known WD40 lubricant and left it to stew on deck. Meanwhile, Karen, wanted to learn how to strip and service winches. More cold hands. Once the starboard primary sheet winch was done she set off on her own to do the port one. A few days later, with some trepidation I hoisted the wind generator back onto the aft goal post and rewired it. Quietly satisfied that it immediately started feeding power back into the batteries and ran without any problem. A surprisingly hardy piece of kit!

On the first Friday of the month, a local Aasiaat band plays at the Cafe 3 restaurant. Steph, the musical one of the crew always was going to go. She took Pelle along at about 9pm, ever so concerned that she had missed the start. Meanwhile Bob was expecting early nights. I followed them up to Cafe 3 at about 9.30 and they were having a beer at a shared table. The place was fairly full. Local Greenlandic's with the odd Dane. The music had rhythm and was light and melodic. The band; three men on accordion's and a guitar with a younger lady on vocals. We had a ball. Before Pelle knew it he was reeling (Greenlandic style dancing is close to Scottish reeling in my view), a few minutes later we were all at it. Steph and I had a dance, and being fairly well educated in Scottish reel we did a double hand twist… on finishing the dance the entire room were clearly stunned in watching these mad Brits wild dancing and gave us a standing applause… for those of you who have seen the film: "Back to the Future" (the first / original) then it was a little like Marty's experience at his parents Prom when he played rock on stage and stated "One day your parents will love this stuff'. After Cafe 3 closed we found ourselves in Soren Peter's home. He being the accordion player and band leader (by night) and school teacher (by day). We left at 0330 hrs! New friendships were made and the following night they joined us onboard Dodo's Delight for dinner and a music session. Nine people, an accordion and a guitar is a fairly tight squeeze in the saloon of a 33' boat.

Over the early days there was a quiet, but determined move to get flights home. There was clearly a desire to "get back to the UK" as quickly as possible. I was never willing to pay over the odds. Suffice to say, Steph, then Karen with David, then Bob and I individually sorted three different routes home. Greenland is an interesting place in which to fly around. Air Greenland has a monopoly. Some of us ferried out to other towns, some flew directly to the main hub airport. I paid about one third of what Karen and David did. Air Greenland, as previously mentioned has one long haul plane. So most of the crew left a week before Bob and I - but then again they did arrived in Alaska before me and this schedule gave Bob and I clear time and the space for us to put Dodo's Delight to bed for the winter.

Dodo's Delight will spend the winter months afloat. The natural harbour at Aasiaat does ice over - but not severely. A local Dane, "Peter the Fisherman" will caretake both D's D and Anna as they are rafted up alongside his own fishing boat. Bows tied securely to a large buoy in the harbour, sterns fixed with long warps to the shore adjacent to the "Seaman's Mission" - the local three star hotel. As the crew departed, Bob and I gradually worked through the boat ensuring she would be safe for the cold winter months. Draining pipework, winterising the engine and ensuing there were no lurking packs of food that would be an unwelcome surprise to the crew next spring. When we weren't working on the boat - which was a fairly straightforward list of jobs, we would use the "Seaman's Mission" for coffee stops, warmth and wifi. It also had running water and we could buy showers there.

It was during my extended stay that I was asked to make a presentation, in English, to the local Secondary School. Due to the rural vastness in the area, over 70% of their students board. It was a fun and engaging event and whilst English is taught as their third language after Danish their grasp of our language was impressive. The Greenlandic language is phenomenally complex. They use very long words, which are descriptive. One word in Greenlandic covers a whole sentence in most European languages. Lar's, the recently arrived English teacher from Denmark invited me to his apartment for dinner with his visiting family which was another great experience of local hospitality. His daughter had arrived from Copenhagen that morning and brought with her some fresh cheeses. Now this may seem strange - but I hadn't eaten cheese for many weeks that were more complex in flavour than cheap, supermarket blocks of tasteless cheddar… wow did my taste buds get a shock that evening!

I have always respected the hardships and life of commercial fishermen. During the Northwest passage I read an interesting book by a female skipper of a New England line boat. A fascinating read. It was therefore opportune to be invited by Peter the Fisherman for a few hours fishing for cod. These he uses to feed his working dogs, which like many packs live on a small off lying island with nothing but the habitat to make their home from. Tough animals. Pelle, Peter and I headed off one morning in his traditional wooden boat. The bigger, more commercial craft are all now steel. We fished for three hours, with lines wrapped around spools which are attached to the bulwarks. Each line has a large, heavy lure with a three pronged hook then six hooks with bate - in the form of brightly coloured rubber strips. After less than three hours, in the freezing winds we had landed about 1500 kgs of Cod - some as large as 6 kgs. His sonar (underwater 'radar') was picking out deep shoals and we manoeuvred into the best position to catch them. As quick as we could reel in and unhook, the lines were taught again with another catch. Poor old Peter, having got free labour for the day spent most of the afternoon and evening gutting and cleaning the catch, as we had caught so much he was preparing them to be sold at the local fish processing factory. Interestingly though he only receives DKK 5 / kg - thats about 55 pence a kilo.

Wednesday 16th October

On Sunday, 6th October we departed for the ferry from Aasiaat to Sisimuit and the beginning of a three day trip to get home. The green glow of the Northern Lights bade us farewell. This was a beautiful sight as it glowed over Aasiaat and subconsciously created a mood reflecting moment. The trip was over and it was time to head back to the UK, which in itself is to be an adventure and exciting for me in other ways. The Northwest passage I hope the blog has been of interest and rewarding for those of you who read it, as much as it has been enjoyable and at times challenging to write. I was on the London tube (underground) yesterday, which in itself is quite a significant change in environment to the bleakness of the NW passage and I saw this quote, which summarises so much of the past few months and no doubt those ahead:

"In the end we only regret the chances we didn't take, relationships we were afraid to have, and the decisions we waited to long to make" - what wise words.

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My thanks to the supporters of the Ellen Macarthur Cancer Trust

11/10/2013

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Yesterday I arrived back to a balmy UK - well at least thats what I think weather wise!

I am about to make the final blog entry for the North West Passage, but before doing so wanted to acknowledge you, who were very important, though you may not know it, in me actually completing the trip - believe me, a number of times I thought about leaving "Dodo's Delight" and returning via the closest airport!

There were always two parts to the adventure; the personal one that I have thought and aspired to achieving for many years, and the fact that I - or rather, WE, could use it to benefit others. To that end, I'd like to make this a heart felt "thank you" in supporting the 'Ellen Macarthur Cancer Trust".

I always approached this adventure with the attitude of a Corinthian sailor. Therefore I self funded my flights, the boat contributions, food and fuel and so on. The other crew did the same. I also provided much (if you see my recent testimonial the skipper would say 'MOST") of the technical input to the boat - fitting new equipment and so forth. HOWEVER, I was very kindly supported by three very special companies - not for any commercial gain - but because they:


A/. Had faith in me. 
B/. Provided top class service and equipment. 

These three companies have had very little publicity or exposure from the expedition, and please forgive me for this blatant exposure, but because of this, the fact their kit is the best and their simple reasoning they deserve a mention here:

https://slamuk.com/  SLAM are to me the new 'Rolls Royce' of sailing kit in quality and functionality. Yes their yachting clothing is that good - there are other well known UK brands but I have used their kit before I approached them for support - so I already knew their gear was at the standard I expect. 

http://www.datasharp-ic.co.uk/ The team at Datasharp IC provided my satellite phone and associated techno garble… without them; blogging, communications and the like would have been impossible. However in my view their response was of more importance, they provided me with 24/7 technology support when needed. Great Servicer and exemplary support. Thanks guys - calling my daughter on her birthday was a special time for me, which I couldn't have achieved with out you and your equipment.

http://www.tepartnership.co.uk/content.asp?Page=546&Menu=520 Tim Esson and his team are the Scottish / N England Dubarry suppliers (amongst other high quality products) of my Crosshaven Sea boots http://uk-shop.dubarryboots.com/collections/men/footwear/sailing-boots/crosshaven-sailing-boot these are the top sea boots for offshore sailing available today. 

We have achieved a great result. The total raised (note: one sponsor sent £100 directly to the trust) is: £2466.00 - but with gift aid this equates to £2952.50

I am now going to embark on sorting out my photos and making some sense to my journal of the passage so that we can put it into printed words and pictures.

Thank you again,
Richard x

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Penultimate update from Aasiaat

1/10/2013

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Well, this blog entry is the last, at least in theory, that I'll write whilst still at sea. The crew aboard Dodo's Delight are in fairly jubilant mood as we have completed the NW Passage - in whomever's view of what constitutes the exact passage start and finish and are currently 29 nm west of Aassiat, Greenland motoring across a calm and still sea. Throughout this expedition I have kept a personal journal of the experience. A small portion of which has been shared on my blog. The unblogged parts being either to mundane, too personal, too contentious or just simply defamatory! 




Saturday 21st September




We departed Pond Inlet during the early afternoon following a quick fuel, water and bread replenishment. Pond Inlet, like so many settlements survives on hunting, fishing and government subsidies. I heard that every man, woman and child receives Can$300 / month in addition to various other social benefits such as fuel allowances and health allowances. You can understand why there is high unemployment and no shortage of outside workers here. It's also something for Alex Salmon to note! 




Pond Inlet was an interesting but brief stop. The anchorage is exposed and the town little more than a roadstead. The locals were friendly and welcoming, no more so than Rita, the hotel manageress who happily allowed us to fill up on fresh coffee and use their wifi. Hotels throughout the region are expensive - costing more than $200/night and thats before breakfast costs. Four men were staying and soon we fell into discussion. They were from the helicopter parked at the end of the adjacent runway. They had been based on a super yacht exploring the areas and had flown over Fort Ross the day after we had departed but had noticed Polar Bound at anchor. Their mothership, The M/Y Octopussy is a familiar sight in many exotic locations, with a crew of seventy they had been looking after the owner and his guests, a mere six people! 




Almost all the settlements, after Nome in Alaska to the East are "dry". it was interesting talking to a Canadan, working as the social worker in Pond that you can purchase and consume alcohol for personal use, but first have to go through a nine step process with the local authorities to be deemed 'safe' to do so. A little like AA's 12 steps in reverse!




The exit from Pond Inlet along Navy Board Inlet to the east is beautiful, rugged and steep. As the sun set behind us it illuminated the rock face, the mountains and the peaks, a truly mesmerising view. I tried once again to calibrate the auto helm but despite 5 x 360 degree turns it wasn't playing… this was going to be a long cold hand-steer! We exited the inlet and passed Cape Weld and Cape MacCulloch and I cam on watch… and thought I'd try the auto helm. We rejoiced as it maintained course. perhaps Baffin Bay wouldn't be so cold to the hands!




We had a forecast that showed light airs for the first part of the week as a result of a large high pressure sitting over Baffin Bay, which would then bring through 15 knots of gentle south-easterlies to propel us across Baffin Bay to Aassiat in Greenland. As a result we aimed to put a little southerly in our course so we could reach off when this breeze filled in.




Sunday 22nd September 




We motored through the night. The crew often infuriating me by wandering (as far as one can) around the cabin with head torches on and when on watch being blinded by them through the companionway. We passed Scott Inlet, with the off lying Scott Island to starboard. Here we came across an array of stunning icebergs. Large, dramatic and with a blue hue to them indicating they were of serious age. These intact are break away parts of the large 'Peterman' glacier, the larger parts f which are scientifically numbered. For example: P12012A1 = Peterman Glacier largest part (1), broke off year 2012, secondary break off largest part A1.




The water depths varied around 'Hecla & Gripes Trough" and the plotter had varying degrees of accuracy, or plain old interpretation of the rocks in the area. On one magnification it said one thing, on another, another view of the depth and level of danger. In addition the locations indicated to land masses were at best dubious.




With the lighter weather persisting we decided that a fuel stop (with hindsight have taken more onboard at Pond Inlet) at Clyde Inlet was wise in order to motorsail across Baffin Bay. So we maintained the SE course.




Monday 23rd September




I came on watch at 0300 hrs as we were closing on Cape Christian. Both David and Kare were awake and concerned over depth. I took over and put some easterly on our course and quickly we increased depth. To the SE of the Cape lies "Agnes Monument", an off lying island which is not correctly located on the plotter and through the use f radar I passed to the east of it. Thereafter I spent my watch motorsailing to the tip of Clyde Inlet, passing Sanda and Burns Islands to starboard. After Steph took over I remained on deck as we headed north up Clyde Inlet, through Grease (new) ice at the north end of the inlet where we anchored in clear water close to vagabond, a steel yacht built for the Arctic by adventurer Eric Brossier and his family (wife and 2 x small children). Eric is well known for his own NW passage adventure and his subsequent NE Passage (around the North of Russia). He and his family now live in the arctic, researching for universities and governments the affects of ice and more.




We arrived Clyde Inlet at 0700 hrs and had departed four hours later. During this time, the local hunters and fishermen were on their way 'to work' and they all cam by for a look. One, clearly having smoked something more than a cigarette was so talkative and chatty that he came alongside for a long chat, welcoming us all to "Clyde Inlet" and highlighting the benefits of where we were over Greenland.




Temperatures have taken a definite rise in the past few days. For the first time since Point Hope I have been on deck without the need for gloves. I haven't come off watch and gripped the warm kettle to get my circulation in my hands kicked into gear again. 




Tuesday 24th September




Tuesday dawned and we were escorted for a fees minutes by three whales. As I came on watch I was told that the engine revs had been dropping off on occasion. For the first thirty minutes of my watch, intently listening for this to happen the engine ran faultlessly. Then it stuttered. Then it stuttered again… finally when I throttled back it stalled. I started checking the filters to find the primary fuel filter was full of water. Once drained and bled we were on our way again. Though the question of contaminated diesel or build up of condensation in the fuel tank was on our minds. 




We were about 200 miles  from Greenland. By evening, light snow was falling, but as the temperatures have risen, so the snow quickly melted off the decks. The last of the fresh food was concocted into a 'three meat' dish - bacon, ham, pepperoni with peppers, tomatoes and onions.




Wednesday 25th September




I wrote in my personal log this morning: "Well this should be the last day of the passage - soon all things will turn to getting home". We were expecting an increase in bergs as we approached Greenland coming out of the Ilulissat glacier. In fact we only really came across one of any size, with the usual associated growlers and brash in its vacinity. By mid afternoon the outlying islands were on the horizon and as dusk came we could see a significant amount of coastline. For a change this was dark brown, green, and with little ice covering. As we closed in to the coast the narrow channels opened up and we were close to 'home'… but we still had to get there!




Steph was on watch, we were on final approach in the outer harbour, a natural one surrounded by islands. A fishing boat was departing Aassiat and we throttled back. David and I started to get the fenders out of the cockpit locker. One of us, pulling a warp out accidentally pulled the engine cut off switch. The engine died. It restarted, though with some reluctance. When then trying to engage gear, the engine would cut out again. After some persuasion, and quickly changing changing into gear from high revs in neutral, we were off again. Bob, as is the norm, took over the helm as we entered the inner harbour. I had warned him that the engine may stall if low revs were used, and sure enough this happened. We could see the masts of 'Anna' and Bob drifted in under way towards the fishing pier gradually depleting our speed.




At the end of the fishing pier, Ohuk, a sturdy (well they'd have to be up here!) 60' steel fishing boat was moored. As Bob steered I caught sight of the trawling gear of the Ohuk hanging 8' up over her stern. Bob was cutting the approach very tightly and we were about to catch the shrouds in the gear. I shouted to him "HARD STARBOARD" and we swung 4" clear of catching. In doing so, the correcting left hand down was too slow to avoid the aft roll bar; housing radar, antenna and the wind generator to miss being caught and the later took a dive for the seabed.




Pelle aboard 'Anna' was alerted by our shouts and caught our lines. He with our lines, combined with me out-stretched on the bow fending off the next fishing boat brought Dodo's Delight to a halt.




We had arrived in Aasiaat, Greenland. Now to explore the delights of this pretty town and work out what next.







Distances:




Nome to Point Hope 309

Point Hope (anchorages in and around) 55

Point Hope to Barter Island 621

Barter Island to Tuktoyaktuk 248

Tuktoyaktuk to Summer Harbour 247

Summer Harbour to Cambridge Bay 478

Cambridge Bay to Tasmania Islands (Sophie Louise Bay) 292

Tasmania Islands to Fort Ross 71

Fort Ross to Fitzgerald Bay (HEMN Island) 104

Fitzgerald Bay to Arctic Bay 258

Arctic Bay to Tay Bay 137

Tay Bay to Pond Inlet 90

Pond Inlet to Clyde Inlet 261

Clyde Inler to Aasiaat 359




Total: 3530










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    Richard Nicolson - Sailing West to East across the North West Passage in aid of the Ellen MacArthur Cancer Trust.

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