Well, this blog entry is the last, at least in theory, that I'll write whilst still at sea. The crew aboard Dodo's Delight are in fairly jubilant mood as we have completed the NW Passage - in whomever's view of what constitutes the exact passage start and finish and are currently 29 nm west of Aassiat, Greenland motoring across a calm and still sea. Throughout this expedition I have kept a personal journal of the experience. A small portion of which has been shared on my blog. The unblogged parts being either to mundane, too personal, too contentious or just simply defamatory!
Saturday 21st September
We departed Pond Inlet during the early afternoon following a quick fuel, water and bread replenishment. Pond Inlet, like so many settlements survives on hunting, fishing and government subsidies. I heard that every man, woman and child receives Can$300 / month in addition to various other social benefits such as fuel allowances and health allowances. You can understand why there is high unemployment and no shortage of outside workers here. It's also something for Alex Salmon to note!
Pond Inlet was an interesting but brief stop. The anchorage is exposed and the town little more than a roadstead. The locals were friendly and welcoming, no more so than Rita, the hotel manageress who happily allowed us to fill up on fresh coffee and use their wifi. Hotels throughout the region are expensive - costing more than $200/night and thats before breakfast costs. Four men were staying and soon we fell into discussion. They were from the helicopter parked at the end of the adjacent runway. They had been based on a super yacht exploring the areas and had flown over Fort Ross the day after we had departed but had noticed Polar Bound at anchor. Their mothership, The M/Y Octopussy is a familiar sight in many exotic locations, with a crew of seventy they had been looking after the owner and his guests, a mere six people!
Almost all the settlements, after Nome in Alaska to the East are "dry". it was interesting talking to a Canadan, working as the social worker in Pond that you can purchase and consume alcohol for personal use, but first have to go through a nine step process with the local authorities to be deemed 'safe' to do so. A little like AA's 12 steps in reverse!
The exit from Pond Inlet along Navy Board Inlet to the east is beautiful, rugged and steep. As the sun set behind us it illuminated the rock face, the mountains and the peaks, a truly mesmerising view. I tried once again to calibrate the auto helm but despite 5 x 360 degree turns it wasn't playing… this was going to be a long cold hand-steer! We exited the inlet and passed Cape Weld and Cape MacCulloch and I cam on watch… and thought I'd try the auto helm. We rejoiced as it maintained course. perhaps Baffin Bay wouldn't be so cold to the hands!
We had a forecast that showed light airs for the first part of the week as a result of a large high pressure sitting over Baffin Bay, which would then bring through 15 knots of gentle south-easterlies to propel us across Baffin Bay to Aassiat in Greenland. As a result we aimed to put a little southerly in our course so we could reach off when this breeze filled in.
Sunday 22nd September
We motored through the night. The crew often infuriating me by wandering (as far as one can) around the cabin with head torches on and when on watch being blinded by them through the companionway. We passed Scott Inlet, with the off lying Scott Island to starboard. Here we came across an array of stunning icebergs. Large, dramatic and with a blue hue to them indicating they were of serious age. These intact are break away parts of the large 'Peterman' glacier, the larger parts f which are scientifically numbered. For example: P12012A1 = Peterman Glacier largest part (1), broke off year 2012, secondary break off largest part A1.
The water depths varied around 'Hecla & Gripes Trough" and the plotter had varying degrees of accuracy, or plain old interpretation of the rocks in the area. On one magnification it said one thing, on another, another view of the depth and level of danger. In addition the locations indicated to land masses were at best dubious.
With the lighter weather persisting we decided that a fuel stop (with hindsight have taken more onboard at Pond Inlet) at Clyde Inlet was wise in order to motorsail across Baffin Bay. So we maintained the SE course.
Monday 23rd September
I came on watch at 0300 hrs as we were closing on Cape Christian. Both David and Kare were awake and concerned over depth. I took over and put some easterly on our course and quickly we increased depth. To the SE of the Cape lies "Agnes Monument", an off lying island which is not correctly located on the plotter and through the use f radar I passed to the east of it. Thereafter I spent my watch motorsailing to the tip of Clyde Inlet, passing Sanda and Burns Islands to starboard. After Steph took over I remained on deck as we headed north up Clyde Inlet, through Grease (new) ice at the north end of the inlet where we anchored in clear water close to vagabond, a steel yacht built for the Arctic by adventurer Eric Brossier and his family (wife and 2 x small children). Eric is well known for his own NW passage adventure and his subsequent NE Passage (around the North of Russia). He and his family now live in the arctic, researching for universities and governments the affects of ice and more.
We arrived Clyde Inlet at 0700 hrs and had departed four hours later. During this time, the local hunters and fishermen were on their way 'to work' and they all cam by for a look. One, clearly having smoked something more than a cigarette was so talkative and chatty that he came alongside for a long chat, welcoming us all to "Clyde Inlet" and highlighting the benefits of where we were over Greenland.
Temperatures have taken a definite rise in the past few days. For the first time since Point Hope I have been on deck without the need for gloves. I haven't come off watch and gripped the warm kettle to get my circulation in my hands kicked into gear again.
Tuesday 24th September
Tuesday dawned and we were escorted for a fees minutes by three whales. As I came on watch I was told that the engine revs had been dropping off on occasion. For the first thirty minutes of my watch, intently listening for this to happen the engine ran faultlessly. Then it stuttered. Then it stuttered again… finally when I throttled back it stalled. I started checking the filters to find the primary fuel filter was full of water. Once drained and bled we were on our way again. Though the question of contaminated diesel or build up of condensation in the fuel tank was on our minds.
We were about 200 miles from Greenland. By evening, light snow was falling, but as the temperatures have risen, so the snow quickly melted off the decks. The last of the fresh food was concocted into a 'three meat' dish - bacon, ham, pepperoni with peppers, tomatoes and onions.
Wednesday 25th September
I wrote in my personal log this morning: "Well this should be the last day of the passage - soon all things will turn to getting home". We were expecting an increase in bergs as we approached Greenland coming out of the Ilulissat glacier. In fact we only really came across one of any size, with the usual associated growlers and brash in its vacinity. By mid afternoon the outlying islands were on the horizon and as dusk came we could see a significant amount of coastline. For a change this was dark brown, green, and with little ice covering. As we closed in to the coast the narrow channels opened up and we were close to 'home'… but we still had to get there!
Steph was on watch, we were on final approach in the outer harbour, a natural one surrounded by islands. A fishing boat was departing Aassiat and we throttled back. David and I started to get the fenders out of the cockpit locker. One of us, pulling a warp out accidentally pulled the engine cut off switch. The engine died. It restarted, though with some reluctance. When then trying to engage gear, the engine would cut out again. After some persuasion, and quickly changing changing into gear from high revs in neutral, we were off again. Bob, as is the norm, took over the helm as we entered the inner harbour. I had warned him that the engine may stall if low revs were used, and sure enough this happened. We could see the masts of 'Anna' and Bob drifted in under way towards the fishing pier gradually depleting our speed.
At the end of the fishing pier, Ohuk, a sturdy (well they'd have to be up here!) 60' steel fishing boat was moored. As Bob steered I caught sight of the trawling gear of the Ohuk hanging 8' up over her stern. Bob was cutting the approach very tightly and we were about to catch the shrouds in the gear. I shouted to him "HARD STARBOARD" and we swung 4" clear of catching. In doing so, the correcting left hand down was too slow to avoid the aft roll bar; housing radar, antenna and the wind generator to miss being caught and the later took a dive for the seabed.
Pelle aboard 'Anna' was alerted by our shouts and caught our lines. He with our lines, combined with me out-stretched on the bow fending off the next fishing boat brought Dodo's Delight to a halt.
We had arrived in Aasiaat, Greenland. Now to explore the delights of this pretty town and work out what next.
Distances:
Nome to Point Hope 309
Point Hope (anchorages in and around) 55
Point Hope to Barter Island 621
Barter Island to Tuktoyaktuk 248
Tuktoyaktuk to Summer Harbour 247
Summer Harbour to Cambridge Bay 478
Cambridge Bay to Tasmania Islands (Sophie Louise Bay) 292
Tasmania Islands to Fort Ross 71
Fort Ross to Fitzgerald Bay (HEMN Island) 104
Fitzgerald Bay to Arctic Bay 258
Arctic Bay to Tay Bay 137
Tay Bay to Pond Inlet 90
Pond Inlet to Clyde Inlet 261
Clyde Inler to Aasiaat 359
Total: 3530
Saturday 21st September
We departed Pond Inlet during the early afternoon following a quick fuel, water and bread replenishment. Pond Inlet, like so many settlements survives on hunting, fishing and government subsidies. I heard that every man, woman and child receives Can$300 / month in addition to various other social benefits such as fuel allowances and health allowances. You can understand why there is high unemployment and no shortage of outside workers here. It's also something for Alex Salmon to note!
Pond Inlet was an interesting but brief stop. The anchorage is exposed and the town little more than a roadstead. The locals were friendly and welcoming, no more so than Rita, the hotel manageress who happily allowed us to fill up on fresh coffee and use their wifi. Hotels throughout the region are expensive - costing more than $200/night and thats before breakfast costs. Four men were staying and soon we fell into discussion. They were from the helicopter parked at the end of the adjacent runway. They had been based on a super yacht exploring the areas and had flown over Fort Ross the day after we had departed but had noticed Polar Bound at anchor. Their mothership, The M/Y Octopussy is a familiar sight in many exotic locations, with a crew of seventy they had been looking after the owner and his guests, a mere six people!
Almost all the settlements, after Nome in Alaska to the East are "dry". it was interesting talking to a Canadan, working as the social worker in Pond that you can purchase and consume alcohol for personal use, but first have to go through a nine step process with the local authorities to be deemed 'safe' to do so. A little like AA's 12 steps in reverse!
The exit from Pond Inlet along Navy Board Inlet to the east is beautiful, rugged and steep. As the sun set behind us it illuminated the rock face, the mountains and the peaks, a truly mesmerising view. I tried once again to calibrate the auto helm but despite 5 x 360 degree turns it wasn't playing… this was going to be a long cold hand-steer! We exited the inlet and passed Cape Weld and Cape MacCulloch and I cam on watch… and thought I'd try the auto helm. We rejoiced as it maintained course. perhaps Baffin Bay wouldn't be so cold to the hands!
We had a forecast that showed light airs for the first part of the week as a result of a large high pressure sitting over Baffin Bay, which would then bring through 15 knots of gentle south-easterlies to propel us across Baffin Bay to Aassiat in Greenland. As a result we aimed to put a little southerly in our course so we could reach off when this breeze filled in.
Sunday 22nd September
We motored through the night. The crew often infuriating me by wandering (as far as one can) around the cabin with head torches on and when on watch being blinded by them through the companionway. We passed Scott Inlet, with the off lying Scott Island to starboard. Here we came across an array of stunning icebergs. Large, dramatic and with a blue hue to them indicating they were of serious age. These intact are break away parts of the large 'Peterman' glacier, the larger parts f which are scientifically numbered. For example: P12012A1 = Peterman Glacier largest part (1), broke off year 2012, secondary break off largest part A1.
The water depths varied around 'Hecla & Gripes Trough" and the plotter had varying degrees of accuracy, or plain old interpretation of the rocks in the area. On one magnification it said one thing, on another, another view of the depth and level of danger. In addition the locations indicated to land masses were at best dubious.
With the lighter weather persisting we decided that a fuel stop (with hindsight have taken more onboard at Pond Inlet) at Clyde Inlet was wise in order to motorsail across Baffin Bay. So we maintained the SE course.
Monday 23rd September
I came on watch at 0300 hrs as we were closing on Cape Christian. Both David and Kare were awake and concerned over depth. I took over and put some easterly on our course and quickly we increased depth. To the SE of the Cape lies "Agnes Monument", an off lying island which is not correctly located on the plotter and through the use f radar I passed to the east of it. Thereafter I spent my watch motorsailing to the tip of Clyde Inlet, passing Sanda and Burns Islands to starboard. After Steph took over I remained on deck as we headed north up Clyde Inlet, through Grease (new) ice at the north end of the inlet where we anchored in clear water close to vagabond, a steel yacht built for the Arctic by adventurer Eric Brossier and his family (wife and 2 x small children). Eric is well known for his own NW passage adventure and his subsequent NE Passage (around the North of Russia). He and his family now live in the arctic, researching for universities and governments the affects of ice and more.
We arrived Clyde Inlet at 0700 hrs and had departed four hours later. During this time, the local hunters and fishermen were on their way 'to work' and they all cam by for a look. One, clearly having smoked something more than a cigarette was so talkative and chatty that he came alongside for a long chat, welcoming us all to "Clyde Inlet" and highlighting the benefits of where we were over Greenland.
Temperatures have taken a definite rise in the past few days. For the first time since Point Hope I have been on deck without the need for gloves. I haven't come off watch and gripped the warm kettle to get my circulation in my hands kicked into gear again.
Tuesday 24th September
Tuesday dawned and we were escorted for a fees minutes by three whales. As I came on watch I was told that the engine revs had been dropping off on occasion. For the first thirty minutes of my watch, intently listening for this to happen the engine ran faultlessly. Then it stuttered. Then it stuttered again… finally when I throttled back it stalled. I started checking the filters to find the primary fuel filter was full of water. Once drained and bled we were on our way again. Though the question of contaminated diesel or build up of condensation in the fuel tank was on our minds.
We were about 200 miles from Greenland. By evening, light snow was falling, but as the temperatures have risen, so the snow quickly melted off the decks. The last of the fresh food was concocted into a 'three meat' dish - bacon, ham, pepperoni with peppers, tomatoes and onions.
Wednesday 25th September
I wrote in my personal log this morning: "Well this should be the last day of the passage - soon all things will turn to getting home". We were expecting an increase in bergs as we approached Greenland coming out of the Ilulissat glacier. In fact we only really came across one of any size, with the usual associated growlers and brash in its vacinity. By mid afternoon the outlying islands were on the horizon and as dusk came we could see a significant amount of coastline. For a change this was dark brown, green, and with little ice covering. As we closed in to the coast the narrow channels opened up and we were close to 'home'… but we still had to get there!
Steph was on watch, we were on final approach in the outer harbour, a natural one surrounded by islands. A fishing boat was departing Aassiat and we throttled back. David and I started to get the fenders out of the cockpit locker. One of us, pulling a warp out accidentally pulled the engine cut off switch. The engine died. It restarted, though with some reluctance. When then trying to engage gear, the engine would cut out again. After some persuasion, and quickly changing changing into gear from high revs in neutral, we were off again. Bob, as is the norm, took over the helm as we entered the inner harbour. I had warned him that the engine may stall if low revs were used, and sure enough this happened. We could see the masts of 'Anna' and Bob drifted in under way towards the fishing pier gradually depleting our speed.
At the end of the fishing pier, Ohuk, a sturdy (well they'd have to be up here!) 60' steel fishing boat was moored. As Bob steered I caught sight of the trawling gear of the Ohuk hanging 8' up over her stern. Bob was cutting the approach very tightly and we were about to catch the shrouds in the gear. I shouted to him "HARD STARBOARD" and we swung 4" clear of catching. In doing so, the correcting left hand down was too slow to avoid the aft roll bar; housing radar, antenna and the wind generator to miss being caught and the later took a dive for the seabed.
Pelle aboard 'Anna' was alerted by our shouts and caught our lines. He with our lines, combined with me out-stretched on the bow fending off the next fishing boat brought Dodo's Delight to a halt.
We had arrived in Aasiaat, Greenland. Now to explore the delights of this pretty town and work out what next.
Distances:
Nome to Point Hope 309
Point Hope (anchorages in and around) 55
Point Hope to Barter Island 621
Barter Island to Tuktoyaktuk 248
Tuktoyaktuk to Summer Harbour 247
Summer Harbour to Cambridge Bay 478
Cambridge Bay to Tasmania Islands (Sophie Louise Bay) 292
Tasmania Islands to Fort Ross 71
Fort Ross to Fitzgerald Bay (HEMN Island) 104
Fitzgerald Bay to Arctic Bay 258
Arctic Bay to Tay Bay 137
Tay Bay to Pond Inlet 90
Pond Inlet to Clyde Inlet 261
Clyde Inler to Aasiaat 359
Total: 3530
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