Whale carcasses
Friday (9th August). During the afternoon Steph, karen and I rowed ashore and made the walk along the spit to the town A distance of just under two miles that due to the loose gravel felt like three times that. On route along the beach we found various carcasses and piles of bones - the local hunters sole remnants of their successes. Steph displayed worrying dentistry skills in removing three teeth from the skull remains of a Walrus. Along the beach there are the remaining structural frames of "Umiak" boats, built from wooden frames which are then covered with Walrus skins (female skins as these have less weak spots created by territorial fighting males with skin damage). traditionally the women used these boats to travel to the summer camps whilst the men went by kayak. When not being used the boats are raised on legs, upturned, to create shelters for the fishermen.
On walking into town we followed a long, 12' black plastic pipe. This feeds the town with drinking water from a river inland, approximately 6 miles away that goes through a modern purification facility. The houses of Point Hope are almost all now fed with mains water and drainage, being completed by a Californian plumber working for the summer here on US$60 / hour for a 60 hour week! He was jovial and talkative and shared plenty of town information. The processed water is held in tanks, with a capacity to provide fresh water for all throughout the long winter months - a capacity of c. 4.5million gallons!
We went to the library (part of the school complex) to catch up on e mails, including a request to speak to BBC Radio Solent but that was for this morning UK time so missed the slot - I sent a number of e mail confirming 0840 hrs BST on Monday instead.
On walking into town we followed a long, 12' black plastic pipe. This feeds the town with drinking water from a river inland, approximately 6 miles away that goes through a modern purification facility. The houses of Point Hope are almost all now fed with mains water and drainage, being completed by a Californian plumber working for the summer here on US$60 / hour for a 60 hour week! He was jovial and talkative and shared plenty of town information. The processed water is held in tanks, with a capacity to provide fresh water for all throughout the long winter months - a capacity of c. 4.5million gallons!
We went to the library (part of the school complex) to catch up on e mails, including a request to speak to BBC Radio Solent but that was for this morning UK time so missed the slot - I sent a number of e mail confirming 0840 hrs BST on Monday instead.
Extraordinary home extensions!
A walk round town led me to the most unusual architectural sight (aside the Town Council Igloo style offices) which was the old remains of an aeroplane fuselage now used as a home extension - complete with cockpit! Elsewhere a pile of whale bones, alongside a number of arches created out of them identified where the town carries out the Nalukataq celebration where the whale meat is distributed around the community, usually around mid summer (June). Some of the bones were from this seasons hunting, still with blood caked on them. As we started the walk back to the dingy we came across the full pelt of Polar Bear. This was clearly laid out to dry before they use an Ulu and comb like instruments to comb the fur to soften and prepare it. On investigation we learnt that unlike Greenland (and elsewhere) the bears are not considered endangered here, and indeed last winter many were shot within the town. Unlike the whales, there is not a kill quota. One person I met, killed his first when he was nine years old.
Friday evening and we joined Guy & Claire on Balthazar for dinner. We took ours across by dingy and shared in a "pot luck" style meal. It was nice to enjoy the conversation of others and to escape the confines of Dodo's Delight. Balthazar being only slightly larger, but organised, tidy and well thought out clearly impressed on some of our crew who clearly wondered why we didn't have the space or luxuries that they did! On returning to the boat, a Whale surfaced approximately 300 metres away. A Bowhead, identifiable as one of the few without a dorsal fin and though not huge, was still probably 25'. Swimming serenely, only a few hundred metres off the beach it disappeared off along the coastline.
Saturday (10th August). What a great night's sleep - helped by a dryish night and open port hoes meant that at least some of the condensation was carried out on the equally damp air flowing through the aft cabin. When I say aft 'cabin', it is more of a cupboard with a small double berth divided in two by a 12" high piece if plywood. My berth runs between the outboard side of the hull and the cockpit wall. Next to this is the rear half of the engine cover. You can't stand up - unless you are a child and this remaining space measures about 2' x 2'. To the port (left) side are a couple of lockers. One with my kit, carefully separate in waterproof bags, the remaining housing tools, food, wire cutters, fire extinguishers. life jackets and so on.
I spent the morning wiring in the final piece of the auto helm; the fluxgate compass. This was mounted just below the mast at the forward end of the cabin and led aft, under floorboards, up behind drawers and behind cabin linings to the pilot computer. Once connected, I was pleased to see it all working so now, when we finally leave Point Hope we can calibrate it once on the move.
During the afternoon we ran the diesel cabin heater. This is a very efficient heater and within an hour I had managed to ensure the aft "cupboard" was condensation free, at least for now. I spoke to Harriet, my daughter briefly on the sat phone to wish her a happy birthday. Nice to hear a familiar voice.
The latest weather forecast is looking promising - at least in the short term. The wind has already (on Saturday PM) swung to the west and we are hoping to get a 72 hour window to head north - at least to the lagoon off to the North(east?) of Barrow where with a cautious approach and some luck, due to the limited chart accuracy we could sit out any more gales. The aim is to leave tomorrow morning (Sunday 11th August).
Sunday morning we got underway in light SW wind, under motor. First job underway was to calibrate the auto helm - though once done, and the display confirming success, once set after c. 2 minutes the boat was rounding up. I attempted a second calibration. requiring a slow 360 degree circle; twice. To no avail, perhaps the confused sea state affected the calibration. We will await gentler conditions to try again.
Over the past two days I have tried to speak to BBC Radio Solent, and whilst Sophie has been wonderful coordinating an interview for their breakfast slot, to date they have had no luck getting the call through. I have suggested I try and call them tonight (Wednesday AM UK time). We will see if that works. What I do know with Sat phones is perseverance is required!
Friday evening and we joined Guy & Claire on Balthazar for dinner. We took ours across by dingy and shared in a "pot luck" style meal. It was nice to enjoy the conversation of others and to escape the confines of Dodo's Delight. Balthazar being only slightly larger, but organised, tidy and well thought out clearly impressed on some of our crew who clearly wondered why we didn't have the space or luxuries that they did! On returning to the boat, a Whale surfaced approximately 300 metres away. A Bowhead, identifiable as one of the few without a dorsal fin and though not huge, was still probably 25'. Swimming serenely, only a few hundred metres off the beach it disappeared off along the coastline.
Saturday (10th August). What a great night's sleep - helped by a dryish night and open port hoes meant that at least some of the condensation was carried out on the equally damp air flowing through the aft cabin. When I say aft 'cabin', it is more of a cupboard with a small double berth divided in two by a 12" high piece if plywood. My berth runs between the outboard side of the hull and the cockpit wall. Next to this is the rear half of the engine cover. You can't stand up - unless you are a child and this remaining space measures about 2' x 2'. To the port (left) side are a couple of lockers. One with my kit, carefully separate in waterproof bags, the remaining housing tools, food, wire cutters, fire extinguishers. life jackets and so on.
I spent the morning wiring in the final piece of the auto helm; the fluxgate compass. This was mounted just below the mast at the forward end of the cabin and led aft, under floorboards, up behind drawers and behind cabin linings to the pilot computer. Once connected, I was pleased to see it all working so now, when we finally leave Point Hope we can calibrate it once on the move.
During the afternoon we ran the diesel cabin heater. This is a very efficient heater and within an hour I had managed to ensure the aft "cupboard" was condensation free, at least for now. I spoke to Harriet, my daughter briefly on the sat phone to wish her a happy birthday. Nice to hear a familiar voice.
The latest weather forecast is looking promising - at least in the short term. The wind has already (on Saturday PM) swung to the west and we are hoping to get a 72 hour window to head north - at least to the lagoon off to the North(east?) of Barrow where with a cautious approach and some luck, due to the limited chart accuracy we could sit out any more gales. The aim is to leave tomorrow morning (Sunday 11th August).
Sunday morning we got underway in light SW wind, under motor. First job underway was to calibrate the auto helm - though once done, and the display confirming success, once set after c. 2 minutes the boat was rounding up. I attempted a second calibration. requiring a slow 360 degree circle; twice. To no avail, perhaps the confused sea state affected the calibration. We will await gentler conditions to try again.
Over the past two days I have tried to speak to BBC Radio Solent, and whilst Sophie has been wonderful coordinating an interview for their breakfast slot, to date they have had no luck getting the call through. I have suggested I try and call them tonight (Wednesday AM UK time). We will see if that works. What I do know with Sat phones is perseverance is required!
The breaking news is this morning we had our first icebergs. Mainly growlers (small pieces) but a couple of these were twice the size of the boat. The weather has become significantly colder over the past 24 hours. I've just come off watch wearing 5 top layers and 4 bottom layers - and this is their summer! One of the most frustrating aspect of Dodo's Delight is the steering wheel. Made of stainless steel which is common on yachts, this one has no leather or rubber covering, unlike most yachts. The result is you are steering with a freezing cold wheel, and despite wearing two pairs of gloves, the cold seeps through them.
Over the past 48 hours we have sailed and motored in a wide variety of conditions, ranging from calm seas and sun to thick, damp and chilling fog. We passed to the East of Cape Lisburne Point Lay, Wainwright and are now (Tuesday 13th August) off Barrow, the most northerly part of Alaska. (Position 71 deg 20' min N 156 deg 41' W). We are heading round to anchor in the lagoon to the NE, as having just closed in on the town, which faces West, the conditions are too lumpy to safely anchor, and it would be an onshore wind, not good seamanship! It will be a short stop, mainly to try and top up with fuel, which whilst we have about 100 gallons on board & is enough for 600 miles, we want to be fully loaded as the next leg is potentially the most inhospitable, with no harbours, little refuge and high ice likelihood for a good few hundred miles.
Sea life is abundant, in addition to various bird species, seals are regular visitors and yesterday more whales. My highlight (aside the bergs of course) was the sighting late last night of two Walrus's. They appeared c. 75 m off the Starboard side, heads high out of the sea, displaying enormous tusks, with beautiful mottled brown skin features. On departing they gave a posers dive so I could see that they were c.12' long, perhaps longer.
Having made it round to the lagoon at Barrow, Bob has decided the conditions are favourable for another 48 hours so we have decided to make Easterly progression whilst this allows. We motored through the lagoon (10-12 miles!) in shallow water - no more than 1.2m under the keel. On exiting the lagoon to the east we ran aground. A three point turn and we motored back the 10-12 miles and exited at the other end, the way we came in! Now heading east once more.
Richard
Over the past 48 hours we have sailed and motored in a wide variety of conditions, ranging from calm seas and sun to thick, damp and chilling fog. We passed to the East of Cape Lisburne Point Lay, Wainwright and are now (Tuesday 13th August) off Barrow, the most northerly part of Alaska. (Position 71 deg 20' min N 156 deg 41' W). We are heading round to anchor in the lagoon to the NE, as having just closed in on the town, which faces West, the conditions are too lumpy to safely anchor, and it would be an onshore wind, not good seamanship! It will be a short stop, mainly to try and top up with fuel, which whilst we have about 100 gallons on board & is enough for 600 miles, we want to be fully loaded as the next leg is potentially the most inhospitable, with no harbours, little refuge and high ice likelihood for a good few hundred miles.
Sea life is abundant, in addition to various bird species, seals are regular visitors and yesterday more whales. My highlight (aside the bergs of course) was the sighting late last night of two Walrus's. They appeared c. 75 m off the Starboard side, heads high out of the sea, displaying enormous tusks, with beautiful mottled brown skin features. On departing they gave a posers dive so I could see that they were c.12' long, perhaps longer.
Having made it round to the lagoon at Barrow, Bob has decided the conditions are favourable for another 48 hours so we have decided to make Easterly progression whilst this allows. We motored through the lagoon (10-12 miles!) in shallow water - no more than 1.2m under the keel. On exiting the lagoon to the east we ran aground. A three point turn and we motored back the 10-12 miles and exited at the other end, the way we came in! Now heading east once more.
Richard
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