Monday 02 September
We awoke early, the nights weather had brought a thick covering (5') of snow both to the decks of Dodo's Delight and to the land surrounding us. No longer could we see rock, just a blanket of fresh whiteness. We weighed anchor and motored back to Fort Ross and Depot Bay. This time, on finding a good spot, we laid two anchors, the first with c. 60m of chain in 8m of water, and a second, on chain and rope at an angle of 40 degrees off. Peter & Pelle (wouldn't that make a great Eurovision band name?) came over to invite us to dinner. Pelle resembles the quite, hardened, chiselled Frenchman in the film Ronin. They stayed for coffee - we cracked out the finest real stuff (as accidentally once mixed with instant in the galley daily use jar so it has that "real feel" with instant making!).
Early in the evening, after an attempt to cook in the refuge hut ashore (cooker wouldn't light) we reconvened on board the delightful 'Anna'. Pelle and his brother built her in the early 1980's having bought the bare hull. Welded in steel, her plates are cut long and thin so she resembled a clinker built boat. Ketch rigged, with a raised bulwark she is a very pretty adaptation of the famous Colin Archer Norwegian designs. As a slight deviation, my father in the early 1950's sailed a Colin Archer yacht, the Marken with two others from the UK, via the Panama Canal to Vancouver, Canada - quite a pioneering voyage in those days with no mod-cons. Anyway, "Anne" is simple but rugged, her cabin lined with Ash panels and some of the woodwork is painted - very Scandinavian, and appealing. She has a fabulous stainless steel heater with chimney that not only is a focal point but belches out copious quantities of that rare commodity up here… heat!
We enjoyed a wonderful meal, prepared by Peter of fresh salmon. He and Pelle have been setting a small drift net from the beach, held with rocks that then spans a distance of about 15 m. In this they are catching 10lb salmon. On one occasion a few days later they were still setting the net when we saw movement in the water, and Pelle hoisted out of the water a good size specimen. As a result our staple meat for the entire visit to Fort Ross has been local fresh fish. It is tremendously 'meaty' and being unformed is quite different to what we are now all so used to. I am not a big salmon fan but have been converted when it comes to fresh, free, Arctic Char and it's close relations.
Tuesday 03 September
As time progresses on this adventure (we are now into our sixth week since departure from Nome), crew dynamics continue to evolve. In no way do I want to make comments that my crew mates would at a future date deem libellous or inaccurate. In the main we manage to walk (sail?) the fine line between all being best of friends one moment, to near mutiny the next. The people aspect was always part of the attraction of this trip, with this crew for me. I first met Bob the skipper only a few months ago and the crew only really when we met up in Nome so always knew things would get interesting at times. I have on more than one occasion mentioned to the others a remark I am making in my journal or blog in order to ensure they know that I am not just writing about the landmark we are passing or the particular stretch of water we are in.
We heard via e mail that one of the teams (Belgian) heading west have run into difficulty off Barrow where they have had to abandon their boat and were lifted off by helicopter. They are safe and are now awaiting a tug from Prudhoe Bay to try and re-float her off the beach or nearby shallows. When we contemplated stopping at Barrow we decided the adjacent shoreline, despite there being a landing point, was too exposed and unprotected.
The constant concern for the past few days (and as you will see for the days to come0 has been the weather and ice reports. At present a band of ice runs from the tip of Somerset Island to the north (at Barrow Strait / Lancaster Sound), some 160 nm away, south towards us (we are at the bottom or south of Somerset Island). This pack ice is 8/10th's or worse. At the same time the reviling winds are N or NW, pushing the ice down on us. Whilst there are channels running to both the East and West of it these could close at any stage. We have contemplated running south and turning around the leading edge before heading north, however there are few bolt holes to run to along the Brodeur Peninsula and the prevailing winds would be on the nose, and forecasts vary but include regular mention of F8 (40 kts). The advice and instinct is to wait.
After a five day marinade, the final meat from the Musk Ox, gratefully received in Cambridge Bay was cooked for dinner by Karen. Having made the first disastrous attempt to cook it where I whole heartedly messed it up and turned once good meat into an inedible form on the day of departure from Cam Bay Karen did the late Musk Ox proud and produced a wonderful braised version for dinner. Karen is openly dyslexic and having close friends and family who are hampered with dyslexia she is a good role model, not afraid to ask for assistance as she writes her own blog. It is also a credit to her as a retired senior nurse and TA Colonel that she managed it through her career so well. After dinner Steph, ever the one to want to play games (she has made her own set of 'Articulate' whilst on board) managed to coerce us all into a humorous and laughter filled game of "Run, Chip, Queen", utilising the Penne Pasta as gambling chips.
Wednesday 04 September
What a surreal awakening. I stepped on deck to see 'Anna' and 'Polar Bound' anchored in their usual spots to the north, and on turning round was slightly caught off guard to see a gin palace anchored to the entrance of Depot Bay. This motor yacht was actually quite elegant, white, with two decks and about 150' (actually later confirmed as 163'). We coerced Bob to call them up on the VHF and thereafter the days events unfolded.
The 'Michaela Rose', registered in Southampton UK had steamed from the Pacific with her crew of 12 under the watchful eye of her captain; Dutchman Tom. They had stopped at Cambridge Bay to collect their guests; the owner and his friends (12 in total) and were heading for Resolute where they would fly home and the boat would head to Halifax and then New York. We 'invited' ourselves over (under the auspices of wanting to see their ice chart). The captain was a little hesitant, but eventually agreed that once the guests had lunched and were on their way ashore to sample the limited delights of Fort Ross we could go over. Clearly Captain Tom didn't want the riffraff on the sail boat getting too close to the guests! On arrival we (Bob, Steph and myself) passed the dingy painter to one of the deck crew, ascended the ships boarding steps, went up a second flight of steps to the luxurious, mahogany panelled bridge. There Tom, and the Ice Pilot, discussed the weather and ice situation.
On completion of the technicalities we thanked them for their hospitality and clearly, as the guests were about to return, it was time for us to leave. As we descended the steps between decks I saw our 10' Avon dingy, on its yacht sized painter which was tied almost vertically by the crew was lifting out of the water and the outboard was getting a thorough dunking in the sea. No pulling of the start cord would get the little, soggy outboard into life. Gradually the situation dawned on Captain Tom and we requested a tow ashore or back to Dod's Delight by one of his two Zodiac's with serious horsepower. This was agreed, however the crew had already started to ferry the guests back on board and the crew were getting their own quick taste of dry land.
Whilst waiting on the main deck various guests would appear for a chat, genuinely interested in our trip and gradually with each returning Zodiac the beach was emptying of guests and crew. The penultimate Zodiac pulled alongside and a man portly, white haired, middle aged man, wearing a trilby (yes for real!) disembarked. A few minutes later he joined Bob and Steph at the top of the boarding ladder whilst he smoked a cigarette. And so it transpired that this gentleman was the Owner. Mr Hansard? Crowe. He said to Bob that he was on his way to the saloon and that we were welcome to join him and his guests. With little delay or second thoughts the three of us followed (swiftly incase Captain Tom had other ideas!).
Most Yachties (and I include myself in this) have a slight dislike of gin palaces, whether a 50' gas guzzling Sunseeker or a 200' Super-yacht. There is a certain vulgarity to them, often adorned with tasteless interior decor and too much bling. The Michaela Rose was clearly a break from that mould. Her clean traditional lines, simple but seamanlike fittings and clear teak decks were simply stunning. We walked aft along the deck to the main aft deck. Simple teak furniture was in place but no other trappings of distaste. The saloon opened off the aft deck. Light mahogany panelling, tastefully upholstered sofas, practical two tone carpets and a large globe to one corner. A dining table and chairs at the far end. On the walls (these can't be called bulkheads!) small detailed oil paintings hung. Talk about going from the sublime to the ridiculous!
For the next fifteen minutes we were offered whisky and coffee (in that order), both declined as we were all in shock, and met Hansard's(?) friends. They were all American's, and what a bunch of Americans to meet in one room. The retired Admiral (Sandy Page?), formerly Captain of the USS Enterprise (the first Nuclear powered Aircraft carrier), Dick Bass(?), the man who built the ski resort; Snowbird in Utah and climbed the world's highest seven peaks… and so it went on. A significant group of Americans. We understand that hansard(?) Crowe is one of the largest real estate or property owners in the US. As our tow arrived, we bade our farewell, and as a parting gift the owner and his pals passed six bottles of fine wine. So we departed and headed back to the 33' of cold and damp which is our home.
In the afternoon, after the departure of the 'Michaela Rose' we went ashore with Peter and Pelle from 'Anna'. We had a small snowball fight (instigated by the energetic Steph), took some photos, raised the "Ellen Macarthur Cancer Trust" flag, applied Sat Phone sponsor, Datasharp IC stickers in the refuge hut and laid 'Anna's' drift net from the beach.
Thursday 05 September
The Swedes in Anna departed early, making a risky attempt to head north along the Somerset Island shore. They passed over yet more Salmon to us after a successful catch during the night.
Fort Ross is one of the favourite locations for stops on the NW Passage. However over the past few years there has been an increased volume of specialist, expedition tourism. Using specialised high latitude ships, people who can pay the money and can enjoy the experience whilst still getting a bath before bed and a sofa to relax on between excursions ashore. Having said that, the NW Passage and the Arctic is still a quiet, desolate environment, and a sighting of another craft is both exciting and unusual. Across the c.3000 miles we all know who is here, and doing what, and where.
This year, we know of 6 or 7 yachts making the East to West trip. One that has done the second half of the same trip, having done the first half in 2012. In regards to West to East transits this year, there is one boat doing half (Empiricus is stopping in Cambridge Bay for the winter) and the remaining three are Polar Bound, Anna and ourselves. Aside these there is the cruise ship, the Michaela Rose and probably one or two others, plus the Canadian icebreakers. But that still only means less than 15 vessels doing the whole passage in 2013. In 2012 the total I believe was about 12. So the numbers are still just below 200 successful completions since the first in 1906.
In addition there are the "mad" Irish rowers, the "mad" Aussie sailor/rowers, and a couple of soloists doing elements of the passage. The jet-skiers are also attempting the whole passage, but we heard today they had run into difficult near the Tasmania Islands and the Canadian Coastguard were lifting them out (consensus out here is that they are PR driven)… I withhold my opinion as I don't know much about their adventure).
My Thursday was consumed by the challenge of taking one damp, water logged, salty and generally unhappy Suzuki 2 hp outboard and persuading it to run. Suffice to say, that after stripping the carburettor down three times, removing the starter, changing the oil, cleaning the spark plug twice and then replacing it, drying off the distributor cap (closed unit), the HT lead and every other component and just before I was about to tackle taking the head off it started. I ran it for 45 minutes and its now one happy outboard again.
Once again we dined out. This time David and Jane aboard Polar Bound invited us across. We had a lovely dinner, starting with mulled wine for the crew and nibbles of popcorn! After a soup we enjoyed a risotto adeptly cooked by Jane, with of course the local delicacy: Arctic Char as main ingredient - also kindly donated by Pelle & Peter. One amusing feature of Polar Bound is the plant that Jane has been growing. I am not sure there are many places at 70 degrees north that grow tomatoes, but close to the exhaust and heater outputs on board Polar Bound, Jane has found a well lit location and her plant has to date provided a small number of "Arctic Tomato's".
Friday 06 September
I full dripless night… yes the drips dripped, but cocooned in my sleeping bag they were just soaked up. The benefit of a good quality synthetic sleeping bag here is that they stay warm whilst the often superior goose down sleeping bags do not hold their thermal qualities. Amongst the five of us on board I am the only one with a synthetic sleeping bag - and also the only one, when conditions allow, to sleep in my underwear due to the body heat build up. The synthetic material also dries much quicker than down.
Morale took a new low today, ice and weather reports imply we have longer to wait. Bob questioned how much provisions we have, sparking the debate that we could be here for many days. It was good that we quickly turned this negative into jovial remarks aug who would be eaten first, what we would do for 10 months and so on. The north / south band of ice in Prince Regent Inlet has not split, and in the past 24 hours has broadened in the north to a point where it has closed in to the coast to both the east and west.
As dusk fell once more the wind rose. At this time of year, this far north, apparently as each day progresses, daylight is reduced by twenty minutes. It certainly seems accurate! As we were repairing for dinner I looked out of the hatch and once again quickly decided we were dragging our anchors. Karen was adamant that I was wrong. Without wanting to create hostility, I pointed out that last night it took us 5 minutes to get to Polar Bound, with the outboard, and that now I could throw a golf ball at her… point made. So far on this trip we have dragged anchor three or four times. On all occasions I have spotted this change in situation. Interesting observation - thats all I can say.
As another anchor dragging story will be repetitive, suffice to say, as we dragged we caught the seabed and were held. Abeam of Polar Bound and 1/10th of a mile from our original position. Karen and Steph had started to let out more chain on the primary anchor, but experience tells me that whilst I know the chain's end is secured to the boat, it is done "in a fashion" with a light piece of line, a small pad eye to an anchor locker bulkhead and that is all. I asked the girls to check how much we had left on board. On inspection the perceived availability of 20m of chain was in fact only a couple of metres (so much for 80m of chain, closer to 60m in total). I marked it "to know" for next time. Lucky that we hadn't allowed it to run further and disappear under load into the 18 metres of cold Arctic water. Bob was happy, the kedge (second) anchor was holding. He announced anchor watches and was the first to start. We finished dinner.
Fortunately Bob soon realised that sitting in a F7 on a kedge, with the primary anchor's holding unknown, and the sea state 700 metres off shore being worse than it would be 2 or 300 metres off just as darkness set in he decided to up anchors and re-lay inshore. Which we did.
The next time both anchors are on deck I will switch the kedge CQR onto the main chain and take the Delta off and make it the kedge… for two reasons: 1/. The CQR is consistently the better holder 2/. The Delta has a bent plough, apparently it has been for a while.
Richard
©. Richard Nicolson 2013
We awoke early, the nights weather had brought a thick covering (5') of snow both to the decks of Dodo's Delight and to the land surrounding us. No longer could we see rock, just a blanket of fresh whiteness. We weighed anchor and motored back to Fort Ross and Depot Bay. This time, on finding a good spot, we laid two anchors, the first with c. 60m of chain in 8m of water, and a second, on chain and rope at an angle of 40 degrees off. Peter & Pelle (wouldn't that make a great Eurovision band name?) came over to invite us to dinner. Pelle resembles the quite, hardened, chiselled Frenchman in the film Ronin. They stayed for coffee - we cracked out the finest real stuff (as accidentally once mixed with instant in the galley daily use jar so it has that "real feel" with instant making!).
Early in the evening, after an attempt to cook in the refuge hut ashore (cooker wouldn't light) we reconvened on board the delightful 'Anna'. Pelle and his brother built her in the early 1980's having bought the bare hull. Welded in steel, her plates are cut long and thin so she resembled a clinker built boat. Ketch rigged, with a raised bulwark she is a very pretty adaptation of the famous Colin Archer Norwegian designs. As a slight deviation, my father in the early 1950's sailed a Colin Archer yacht, the Marken with two others from the UK, via the Panama Canal to Vancouver, Canada - quite a pioneering voyage in those days with no mod-cons. Anyway, "Anne" is simple but rugged, her cabin lined with Ash panels and some of the woodwork is painted - very Scandinavian, and appealing. She has a fabulous stainless steel heater with chimney that not only is a focal point but belches out copious quantities of that rare commodity up here… heat!
We enjoyed a wonderful meal, prepared by Peter of fresh salmon. He and Pelle have been setting a small drift net from the beach, held with rocks that then spans a distance of about 15 m. In this they are catching 10lb salmon. On one occasion a few days later they were still setting the net when we saw movement in the water, and Pelle hoisted out of the water a good size specimen. As a result our staple meat for the entire visit to Fort Ross has been local fresh fish. It is tremendously 'meaty' and being unformed is quite different to what we are now all so used to. I am not a big salmon fan but have been converted when it comes to fresh, free, Arctic Char and it's close relations.
Tuesday 03 September
As time progresses on this adventure (we are now into our sixth week since departure from Nome), crew dynamics continue to evolve. In no way do I want to make comments that my crew mates would at a future date deem libellous or inaccurate. In the main we manage to walk (sail?) the fine line between all being best of friends one moment, to near mutiny the next. The people aspect was always part of the attraction of this trip, with this crew for me. I first met Bob the skipper only a few months ago and the crew only really when we met up in Nome so always knew things would get interesting at times. I have on more than one occasion mentioned to the others a remark I am making in my journal or blog in order to ensure they know that I am not just writing about the landmark we are passing or the particular stretch of water we are in.
We heard via e mail that one of the teams (Belgian) heading west have run into difficulty off Barrow where they have had to abandon their boat and were lifted off by helicopter. They are safe and are now awaiting a tug from Prudhoe Bay to try and re-float her off the beach or nearby shallows. When we contemplated stopping at Barrow we decided the adjacent shoreline, despite there being a landing point, was too exposed and unprotected.
The constant concern for the past few days (and as you will see for the days to come0 has been the weather and ice reports. At present a band of ice runs from the tip of Somerset Island to the north (at Barrow Strait / Lancaster Sound), some 160 nm away, south towards us (we are at the bottom or south of Somerset Island). This pack ice is 8/10th's or worse. At the same time the reviling winds are N or NW, pushing the ice down on us. Whilst there are channels running to both the East and West of it these could close at any stage. We have contemplated running south and turning around the leading edge before heading north, however there are few bolt holes to run to along the Brodeur Peninsula and the prevailing winds would be on the nose, and forecasts vary but include regular mention of F8 (40 kts). The advice and instinct is to wait.
After a five day marinade, the final meat from the Musk Ox, gratefully received in Cambridge Bay was cooked for dinner by Karen. Having made the first disastrous attempt to cook it where I whole heartedly messed it up and turned once good meat into an inedible form on the day of departure from Cam Bay Karen did the late Musk Ox proud and produced a wonderful braised version for dinner. Karen is openly dyslexic and having close friends and family who are hampered with dyslexia she is a good role model, not afraid to ask for assistance as she writes her own blog. It is also a credit to her as a retired senior nurse and TA Colonel that she managed it through her career so well. After dinner Steph, ever the one to want to play games (she has made her own set of 'Articulate' whilst on board) managed to coerce us all into a humorous and laughter filled game of "Run, Chip, Queen", utilising the Penne Pasta as gambling chips.
Wednesday 04 September
What a surreal awakening. I stepped on deck to see 'Anna' and 'Polar Bound' anchored in their usual spots to the north, and on turning round was slightly caught off guard to see a gin palace anchored to the entrance of Depot Bay. This motor yacht was actually quite elegant, white, with two decks and about 150' (actually later confirmed as 163'). We coerced Bob to call them up on the VHF and thereafter the days events unfolded.
The 'Michaela Rose', registered in Southampton UK had steamed from the Pacific with her crew of 12 under the watchful eye of her captain; Dutchman Tom. They had stopped at Cambridge Bay to collect their guests; the owner and his friends (12 in total) and were heading for Resolute where they would fly home and the boat would head to Halifax and then New York. We 'invited' ourselves over (under the auspices of wanting to see their ice chart). The captain was a little hesitant, but eventually agreed that once the guests had lunched and were on their way ashore to sample the limited delights of Fort Ross we could go over. Clearly Captain Tom didn't want the riffraff on the sail boat getting too close to the guests! On arrival we (Bob, Steph and myself) passed the dingy painter to one of the deck crew, ascended the ships boarding steps, went up a second flight of steps to the luxurious, mahogany panelled bridge. There Tom, and the Ice Pilot, discussed the weather and ice situation.
On completion of the technicalities we thanked them for their hospitality and clearly, as the guests were about to return, it was time for us to leave. As we descended the steps between decks I saw our 10' Avon dingy, on its yacht sized painter which was tied almost vertically by the crew was lifting out of the water and the outboard was getting a thorough dunking in the sea. No pulling of the start cord would get the little, soggy outboard into life. Gradually the situation dawned on Captain Tom and we requested a tow ashore or back to Dod's Delight by one of his two Zodiac's with serious horsepower. This was agreed, however the crew had already started to ferry the guests back on board and the crew were getting their own quick taste of dry land.
Whilst waiting on the main deck various guests would appear for a chat, genuinely interested in our trip and gradually with each returning Zodiac the beach was emptying of guests and crew. The penultimate Zodiac pulled alongside and a man portly, white haired, middle aged man, wearing a trilby (yes for real!) disembarked. A few minutes later he joined Bob and Steph at the top of the boarding ladder whilst he smoked a cigarette. And so it transpired that this gentleman was the Owner. Mr Hansard? Crowe. He said to Bob that he was on his way to the saloon and that we were welcome to join him and his guests. With little delay or second thoughts the three of us followed (swiftly incase Captain Tom had other ideas!).
Most Yachties (and I include myself in this) have a slight dislike of gin palaces, whether a 50' gas guzzling Sunseeker or a 200' Super-yacht. There is a certain vulgarity to them, often adorned with tasteless interior decor and too much bling. The Michaela Rose was clearly a break from that mould. Her clean traditional lines, simple but seamanlike fittings and clear teak decks were simply stunning. We walked aft along the deck to the main aft deck. Simple teak furniture was in place but no other trappings of distaste. The saloon opened off the aft deck. Light mahogany panelling, tastefully upholstered sofas, practical two tone carpets and a large globe to one corner. A dining table and chairs at the far end. On the walls (these can't be called bulkheads!) small detailed oil paintings hung. Talk about going from the sublime to the ridiculous!
For the next fifteen minutes we were offered whisky and coffee (in that order), both declined as we were all in shock, and met Hansard's(?) friends. They were all American's, and what a bunch of Americans to meet in one room. The retired Admiral (Sandy Page?), formerly Captain of the USS Enterprise (the first Nuclear powered Aircraft carrier), Dick Bass(?), the man who built the ski resort; Snowbird in Utah and climbed the world's highest seven peaks… and so it went on. A significant group of Americans. We understand that hansard(?) Crowe is one of the largest real estate or property owners in the US. As our tow arrived, we bade our farewell, and as a parting gift the owner and his pals passed six bottles of fine wine. So we departed and headed back to the 33' of cold and damp which is our home.
In the afternoon, after the departure of the 'Michaela Rose' we went ashore with Peter and Pelle from 'Anna'. We had a small snowball fight (instigated by the energetic Steph), took some photos, raised the "Ellen Macarthur Cancer Trust" flag, applied Sat Phone sponsor, Datasharp IC stickers in the refuge hut and laid 'Anna's' drift net from the beach.
Thursday 05 September
The Swedes in Anna departed early, making a risky attempt to head north along the Somerset Island shore. They passed over yet more Salmon to us after a successful catch during the night.
Fort Ross is one of the favourite locations for stops on the NW Passage. However over the past few years there has been an increased volume of specialist, expedition tourism. Using specialised high latitude ships, people who can pay the money and can enjoy the experience whilst still getting a bath before bed and a sofa to relax on between excursions ashore. Having said that, the NW Passage and the Arctic is still a quiet, desolate environment, and a sighting of another craft is both exciting and unusual. Across the c.3000 miles we all know who is here, and doing what, and where.
This year, we know of 6 or 7 yachts making the East to West trip. One that has done the second half of the same trip, having done the first half in 2012. In regards to West to East transits this year, there is one boat doing half (Empiricus is stopping in Cambridge Bay for the winter) and the remaining three are Polar Bound, Anna and ourselves. Aside these there is the cruise ship, the Michaela Rose and probably one or two others, plus the Canadian icebreakers. But that still only means less than 15 vessels doing the whole passage in 2013. In 2012 the total I believe was about 12. So the numbers are still just below 200 successful completions since the first in 1906.
In addition there are the "mad" Irish rowers, the "mad" Aussie sailor/rowers, and a couple of soloists doing elements of the passage. The jet-skiers are also attempting the whole passage, but we heard today they had run into difficult near the Tasmania Islands and the Canadian Coastguard were lifting them out (consensus out here is that they are PR driven)… I withhold my opinion as I don't know much about their adventure).
My Thursday was consumed by the challenge of taking one damp, water logged, salty and generally unhappy Suzuki 2 hp outboard and persuading it to run. Suffice to say, that after stripping the carburettor down three times, removing the starter, changing the oil, cleaning the spark plug twice and then replacing it, drying off the distributor cap (closed unit), the HT lead and every other component and just before I was about to tackle taking the head off it started. I ran it for 45 minutes and its now one happy outboard again.
Once again we dined out. This time David and Jane aboard Polar Bound invited us across. We had a lovely dinner, starting with mulled wine for the crew and nibbles of popcorn! After a soup we enjoyed a risotto adeptly cooked by Jane, with of course the local delicacy: Arctic Char as main ingredient - also kindly donated by Pelle & Peter. One amusing feature of Polar Bound is the plant that Jane has been growing. I am not sure there are many places at 70 degrees north that grow tomatoes, but close to the exhaust and heater outputs on board Polar Bound, Jane has found a well lit location and her plant has to date provided a small number of "Arctic Tomato's".
Friday 06 September
I full dripless night… yes the drips dripped, but cocooned in my sleeping bag they were just soaked up. The benefit of a good quality synthetic sleeping bag here is that they stay warm whilst the often superior goose down sleeping bags do not hold their thermal qualities. Amongst the five of us on board I am the only one with a synthetic sleeping bag - and also the only one, when conditions allow, to sleep in my underwear due to the body heat build up. The synthetic material also dries much quicker than down.
Morale took a new low today, ice and weather reports imply we have longer to wait. Bob questioned how much provisions we have, sparking the debate that we could be here for many days. It was good that we quickly turned this negative into jovial remarks aug who would be eaten first, what we would do for 10 months and so on. The north / south band of ice in Prince Regent Inlet has not split, and in the past 24 hours has broadened in the north to a point where it has closed in to the coast to both the east and west.
As dusk fell once more the wind rose. At this time of year, this far north, apparently as each day progresses, daylight is reduced by twenty minutes. It certainly seems accurate! As we were repairing for dinner I looked out of the hatch and once again quickly decided we were dragging our anchors. Karen was adamant that I was wrong. Without wanting to create hostility, I pointed out that last night it took us 5 minutes to get to Polar Bound, with the outboard, and that now I could throw a golf ball at her… point made. So far on this trip we have dragged anchor three or four times. On all occasions I have spotted this change in situation. Interesting observation - thats all I can say.
As another anchor dragging story will be repetitive, suffice to say, as we dragged we caught the seabed and were held. Abeam of Polar Bound and 1/10th of a mile from our original position. Karen and Steph had started to let out more chain on the primary anchor, but experience tells me that whilst I know the chain's end is secured to the boat, it is done "in a fashion" with a light piece of line, a small pad eye to an anchor locker bulkhead and that is all. I asked the girls to check how much we had left on board. On inspection the perceived availability of 20m of chain was in fact only a couple of metres (so much for 80m of chain, closer to 60m in total). I marked it "to know" for next time. Lucky that we hadn't allowed it to run further and disappear under load into the 18 metres of cold Arctic water. Bob was happy, the kedge (second) anchor was holding. He announced anchor watches and was the first to start. We finished dinner.
Fortunately Bob soon realised that sitting in a F7 on a kedge, with the primary anchor's holding unknown, and the sea state 700 metres off shore being worse than it would be 2 or 300 metres off just as darkness set in he decided to up anchors and re-lay inshore. Which we did.
The next time both anchors are on deck I will switch the kedge CQR onto the main chain and take the Delta off and make it the kedge… for two reasons: 1/. The CQR is consistently the better holder 2/. The Delta has a bent plough, apparently it has been for a while.
Richard
©. Richard Nicolson 2013
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